Hi Tinster,
Someone else will need to help you regarding the buzzer, I can only guess that it might be related to a seat belt warning (sensors in the seat and seat belt itself, a buzzer mounted somewhere under the dash) which is now common on cars, but might only have been on late TR6 and even then might not have been installed for cars going to all countries. Some countries didn't require them.
But I can tell you that you won't find an elec fuel pump or elec cooling fan, unless you or a previous owner of the car has installed them. No TR6 had either of those items originally.
I'm sure Dan's wiring harness includes circuits for them simply because they are very popular additions to the car. If your car isn't equipped with either of them, you can simply not connect the wiring and it will be available should you ever want to add those features.
If there were one installed, the elec fan would be mounted on one side of the radiator or the other: either front of it or in back.
If mounted in front of the radiator, it's referred to as a "pusher" fan, because it pushes air through the radiator.
Pusher fans are sometimes chosen because they can be hidden under the radiator shroud, leaving the engine compartment looking relatively original.
If mounted behind the radiator it is called a "puller" fan, but the stock fan mounted on the front of the engine usually needs to be removed, and the elec fan needs to be selected carefully to fit in the relaively small area right behind the radiator. A puller fan is a little more efficient operating than a pusher fan, because the pusher fan actually blocks some air flow. And, a pusher fan is more exposed to rain or anything else that comes in through the grill and might hit the motor, so a puller fan is a little better protected.
It's important when buying any auxiliary fan to check what type you are getting - pusher or puller - depending upon where you plan to mount it: in front of or behind the radiator. The rotational direction of the fan blades determines the direction the air is moved and limits the fan to mounting in one position or the other. Some fans are strictly pushers or pullers. There are also "convertible" elec fans that allow you to unbolt the fan blades and turn them around, to use the fan in either pusher or puller configuration. This type needs to have symetrical blades to allow the conversion, and the other type - dedicated to eitehr pusher or puller - can be made a little more efficient with special curved or shaped blades.
If either type of fan is installed, it's usual to also install a thermostatic switch to control it, that senses the temperature of the engine coolant. There are different types of sensor switches, some are adjustable, others aren't and simply turn the elec fan on when coolant reaches 185F and off when it cools to 170F (there are other temp ranges, but this is the best one for our old Triumphs). In my opinion, the best place to measure coolant temp is at the lower radiator hose, where the fluid is returning to the engine and coolant temp is more stable and consistent. Some people like to also install a switch in the cockpit, so they can turn the cooling fan on even before the thermoswitch calls for it, such as when stuck in traffic on a hot day.
Also, there is usually an electrical relay installed, so that the power to the elec fan isn't going through any of the switching mechanisms, which the higher power draw might burn out prematurely. I'm sure Dan's wiring harness will call for a relay, since he is a big fan of adding them.
Speaking of power, it's important to consider any older car's charging system when installing an electric fan. Many fans draw over 10 amps and some old cars use generators or alternators that only produce 20-35 amps. So, a big fan, drawing a lot of power, can drain the car's battery pretty quickly if, say, the headlights, windshield wipers and heater fan are being used at the same time. So, an upgraded alternator might be necessary, to use an elec fan.
Regarding the elec fuel pump, again you won't have one on the car unless you or a previous owner installed one. TR6 came originally with a mechanical fuel pump that's mounted on the side of the engine.
If there were an elec fuel pump installed, you would often find it in the trunk, in the corner of the spare tire well. It's important that an electric fuel pump be mounted as low as possible, below the bottom of the fuel tank, so that no air can get drawn into it when fuel is low or sloshing around in the gas tank. Usually a fuel filter is also installed, between the fuel pump and the fuel tank, to protect the pump and the rest of the fuel system. There are some alternative locations for a fuel pump- on my TR4 a very small elec fuel pump (Facet) is mounted on the inboard side of the LH shock absorber mounting bracket, but that location probably wouldn't work with a TR250 or TR6 because the shocks are mounted differently. I prefer to have the pump external (I previously had one in the trunk, but it was noisy and I worried about leaks or it being vulnerable in an accident.)
Some people install an electric fuel pump for added reliability, but leave the shell of the original mechanical pump in place on the engine, so that the engine compartment looks original. In this case, the hidden elec pump is pushing the fuel through the old original pump. If originality is not important to you, the mechanical fuel pump can be removed from the engine and replaced with a blanking plate (easy to make with 1/4" steel or aluminum). For high performance, the mechanical fuel pump is often removed because it does produce a little drag on the engine (it runs off a lobe on the cam shaft) and there can be a fractional gain of HP with an elec pump.
Another important consideration, should you ever decide to install one, is that an electric fuel pump needs to be low pressure on TR6 - there are many types and some produce way too high pressure for use on Triumphs with SU, ZS or other carburetors (fuel injected cars, for example, use pumps with much higher pressure). Too high pressure will cause severe engine flooding problems. The pressure only needs to be about 2.5 to 3.5 psi. So, adding an electric pump also often means adding a fuel pressure regulator and a small pressure gauge to the system, usually under the hood somewhere.
Again, Dan's wiring harness is set up to accomodate an elec fuel pump, should you ever decide to install one. You can simply route the wires but not connect them, and they'll be ready to use if you ever want to install an elec pump. Also, I would bet that Dan's harness is designed to use a relay.
Hope this helps!
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