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Fuel Pump in Rubber Bumper

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capitalcitycars

Jedi Trainee
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Anybody ever installed an electric fuel pump into a Midget 1500? How did it work? How do you install it? What kind of fuel pump did you use? I have heard others do this in other types of vehicles and thinking about it for my 76 midget. My car is about 75% complete and I'm focusing on what passes for electrical in the Midget. Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
I haven't, but I can't imagine it's that hard as all the 1098 and 1275 cars had electric pumps. The thing is, any electric pump you get has to be a low pressure pump, otherwise you'll overpower the needle seat(s) in the float chamber(s) of the carb(s). I think the max is 2-4psi. But a pressure regulator will take care of that as well.

I think NAPA sells the low pressure Facet pump, which is a small cube. I've heard of a number of Spridgets running these with no problems.

-=Chris
 
I don't know Webers at all (I have SU's on my 1500), but I suspect the same principles apply. Basically, you need to make sure you don't buy a 40psi pump meant for fuel injection, and you should be OK. A fuel pressure regulator will allow you to fine tune it from there.

Hope this helps.

-=Chris
 
I have a lowpressure fuel pump from autozone. It is controlled from a relay that kicks in when the key is switched on. At the time, I didn't have a place near the rear of the car so I installed it right on the wheel well on the passenger side. I put it down low and fabricated a heat shield to protect it from the exhaust pipe that also runs on that side. I just cut into the fuel line from the tank right there and plumbed it with fuel hose. Works like a champ...knock on wood.
JC
 
How do you plug the opening where the old one was installed in the engine? I guess that's what I'm trying to figure out. Also, where would the fuel line enter the engine? I'm use to working on Chevys & Fords. Thanks!
 
I installed an electric pump in my '78.
I mounted it on the inner fender on the right side.
I pulled power from the fuse box. I forget which fuse
it was pulled from, but it was one that was hot when the ignition was on.

I also rerouted the fuel line. Instead of having it go across the bell housing to where the mechanical pump was and then back to the right side, I just ran it up from the frame rail to the pump.

Runs fine, no problem.
 
How do you plug the opening where the old one was installed in the engine? Also, where would the fuel line enter the engine?
 
Many auto parts stores and speed shops selling blanking plates to cover the opening. Be sure to use a gasket.
If you cannot find a plate, you can cut one from sheet metal.

My set up for the fuel line is tank to pump to filter to pressure regulator to carbs (I have twin SU's).

If there is no filter, put one in.

Mike
 
My car had an electric pump installed when I bought it, but I am pretty sure the PO used a fuel pump blanking plate meant for a Chevy. You can probably find one of these in a non big brand name auto parts store in an older part of town.

The stock fuel line is very flexible. You should be able to disconnect the hose at the stock fuel pump inlet, and bend it such that the pipe comes out on the same side as the carb (passenger side). Just be careful you don't kink it.

The generic electric fuel pump will come with a mounting bracket. Buy a couple of self tapping bolts, drill appropriately sized holes in the lower wheel well on the passenger side and voila. Be sure to slide your passenger seat all the way forward and pull back the carpet so you don't wreck it with your drill.
 
Fuel's fuel. As long as you are getting it to the bowl, you're good to go.
 
[ QUOTE ]
How about if you have a Weber Carb? Do I still need the low pressure fuel pump? Thanks!

[/ QUOTE ]
Yes - The weber carbs have the same pressure limitations as the SU's. About 3.5 to 4 psi maximum.
D
 
For a blanking plate, I took a piece of 1/4" aluminum and fabbed one up. You could probably use anything but I had access to that piece and it was soft enough to work with simple hand tools. Sorry it took so long to get back to you on that one.
JC
 
A few things I learned when converting to an electric pump. 1. You may want to consider some isolated mounting system. My off the shelf electric pump vibrated like crazy (could have been the mounting site I selected) and the noise was transmitted through the entire chase. I fabricated a mounting plate then used some rubber washers, etc to isolate it from another mounting plate which I then attached to the chase. Works ok. 2. if you get some pressure regulators they have a lmax psi they can handle. I got the one from Moss or Victoria British and found afterwards it would accept pressures no more then 12 or 14 pounds. The original electric pump I had was 20 or 30 psi so the regulator leaked like crazy. The catalog didn't give this information or I never would have bought it. 3. As far as blanking plates. I just gutted the mechanical pump but kept the unit a closed system. It just sits there as if it works, then I looped a piece of fuel line around the engine compartment so it appears as if the unit still operates. Hope this helps someone.
 
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