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fuel line shut off valve

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71tr

71tr

Jedi Warrior
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I want to put an inline fuel shut-off valve between the fuel tank and engine compartment. There are a handful of auto specific products available but non are inexpensive. What if any are the pitfalls of using a 1/4" ball-cock brass shut-off valve typically used in plumbing applications. This unit is small enough to be mounted on the car frame and uses a single 90 degree shut-off handle.
 
I installed a needle valve on the bottom of my GT6's tank. It is also a right angle valve. If the seal material around the valve stem is compatible with fuel you'll be OK. I think the valve I used has simple Buna-N (nitrile) seals and it's worked fine for a decade. A ball valve will work also, again, just determine what its seal material is and do a Google search for the compatibility of that material with gasoline.
 
Thanks for your opinion Doug. I pulled the original tag from my brass valve and it states plainly "use with water, oil or gas".
 
Or check the local motorcycle shops. Bikes with an "Isaac Newton" fuel pump all use a petcock between the tank and carburetor.
 
Interesting that you mention the motorcycle angle. The only reasonably priced shut-off valve I could find on the internet was offered by a yamaha-seadoo place in California. Would have purchased that but shipping was more than the item, just didn't make sense. I'm happy with the local-source brass valve I've purchased.
 
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Or check the local motorcycle shops. Bikes with an "Isaac Newton" fuel pump all use a petcock between the tank and carburetor.

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Hahahaha! that's good. I gotta remember that one.
I agree, either known compatable hardware type parts, or motorcycle parts.
Or get and old TR2 or early 3 that came with one.
 
The early TR2 to TR3A's had a "petrol stop-cock" as standard equipment. I have seen then at autojumbles for $35.00 each.

You don't want to put in a valve that will shut itself off (closed) while you are driving on rough roads where the vibration will shut it off.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
 
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...I pulled the original tag from my brass valve and it states plainly "use with water, oil or gas".

[/ QUOTE ]If it's a home plumbing piece I would assume that means water, heating fuel oil or natural gas, none of which have the same chemical properties as gasoline.

Maybe it will work just fine, maybe not. Personally, I wouldn't take the chance unless I knew the seal material.

The other question is the restriction size. Most valves with a given inlet/outlet line size restrict flow more than a length of that same size tubing. If the restriction is too great your fuel pump can have trouble priming or delivering adequate flow.

In a fluid system with marginal capacity it's best to use "full flow" ball valves that maintain the same inner diameter through the valve body as the tubing.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif


PC.
 
If you want a really good fuel shut-off...

...just buy a reproduction mechanical fuel pump from one of the big vendors --- it will certainly stop the flow of fuel in no time! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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If you want a really good fuel shut-off...

...just buy a reproduction mechanical fuel pump from one of the big vendors --- it will certainly stop the flow of fuel in no time! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Ouch!
little rant there sammy?
How do you really feel? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Many years ago, I installed a Holley fuel pump and Fram fuel filter in the trunk of my old TR6, which someone totalled when they hit me. The valve was of the ball type and gasoline rated, but I cannot remember where I bought it. Since I am looking to install an electric fuel pump in my current TR6, I need a valve again. Has anyone found a gasoline rated brass ball valve? Stainless steel is OK as well.
 
The industrial 7-11 is www.mcmaster.com Go there and type in the search phrase "ball valve". You'll be met with a lot of choices to weed through. I checked my material compatibility lists and the common seal materials compatible with gasoline are Buna-N (nitrile), Viton, and PTFE (Teflon). Almost every ball valve I looked at (at McMaster) used those materials. The problem would be finding a nice "compact" valve with "small" pipe fittings.
 
Just a joke...actually, it appears that the quality of the repro fuel pumps has really improved over the last six or seven years. It was just a jab for those of us who have been left stranded by a faulty, yet not very old pump.

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
If you want a really good fuel shut-off...

...just buy a reproduction mechanical fuel pump from one of the big vendors --- it will certainly stop the flow of fuel in no time! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Ouch!
little rant there sammy?
How do you really feel? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
 
I used a plastic fuel valve that's made for lawn & garden equipment. I found it at Lowe's for about $5.
 
Rick,

This is just my opinion, but, for the $15.00 difference, I would rather have a metal valve rather than a plastic one. The plastic has a higher thermal coefficient of expansion, which may lead to failure or leakage, and is more prone to brittleness when cold. Although you may never have a problem (and I hope you do not), I believe the metal one to be a safer choice for the money.

Just my $.02.

Alan
 
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