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Fuel Line Question

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jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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Right now I have an electric fuel pump situated just below the gas tank in my TR6.

The steel line from the fuel tank is connected to a rubber fuel line that connects to a fuel filter, which in turn connects to the fuel pump via a rubber line. From the fuel pump a further rubber hose connects to a steel line, which snakes under the car from the trunk to the engine compartment. It emerges there and is connected to a rubber line, which connects to a second fuel filter, which is then connected to a rubber hose, which then comes up to the bulkhead, connects to a steel line that passes across the bulkhead above the battery, and then down the other side, where it is connected to a rubber line which finally connects to the carbs.

I would like to simplify this set up!

In particular I would like to position the fuel pump in the engine compartment, perhaps on the driver's side wheel arch.

I would like to eliminate the filter after the pump: it seems like overkill to have two filters in the line.

So my plan is to connect a short rubber line between the fuel tank and the steel line that goes under the body, then at the front connect that to a fuel filter, then the pump, then take a steel line around the front of the engine (rather than across the bulkhead), past the water pump, and directly to the carbs.

How does that sound (for those who didn't fall to sleep with boredom twenty lines back!)??
 
Some , Most, pumps push better than pull. Another consideration is the height of the pump. They like to be lower than the tank as is your present.
 
Keep the pump as close to the tank as possible to prevent heat problems < air lock > ( can't think of the word ) but get rid of the front filter. The filter before pump, pump, carbs. If you look at the electric pumps they are mounted near tank. If I remember the Triumphs I had , the fuel line came down the left side of the block over the waterpump and then to the front carb.
 
Julian,

DPO Pedro's fuel lines failed and bled a tank of gasoline
while parked in my garage. His fuel pimp failed while driving 20+ miles from home.

I replaced everything including installing a cut-off valve
back near the fuel tank. I used a combination of steel
pipes and gas hoses. I have an in-line filter just
after the tank, one just before the mechanical pump and one
just before the carbs. A total of three filters.

I have a hard wired electric pump installed as a backup
pump for emergencies when the mechanical pump fails. I'm
on my 4th mechanical pump now at 1160 miles driven.

Why not install a mechanical pump and use your electric as
backup for emergencies?

Here's a photo of how I routed my new fuel line.

reroute.jpg
 
Best to check the bottom of the fuel tank for contaminates (rust, water, dried fuel varnish etc) before reducing the filters - the PO may have installed them for a reason. Should have seen the gunk in the bottom of mine - Eeek! This can gum up the carbs and have you constantly chasing problems till you can get the tank properly cleaned and re-lined.

Rob.
 
RobT said:
Best to check the bottom of the fuel tank for contaminates (rust, water, dried fuel varnish etc) before reducing the filters - the PO may have installed them for a reason. Should have seen the gunk in the bottom of mine - Eeek! This can gum up the carbs and have you constantly chasing problems till you can get the tank properly cleaned and re-lined.

Rob.
Click to expand...

Rob makes a good point. i think your 6 has sat for awhile and depending on how it has been stored i might make sure the filters are both fresh and see if they stay clean before cutting redoing the fuel lines.

Fuel line issues can make you crazy - I have lots of first hand experience here.
 
jjbunn said:
In particular I would like to position the fuel pump in the engine compartment, perhaps on the driver's side wheel arch.

How does that sound (for those who didn't fall to sleep with boredom twenty lines back!)??
Click to expand...

My DFM (Like DPO, but Mechanic and more Anglo-Saxon) did this to my car. It looks like crap and worked about as well (but then the low-psi pump did put out over 15psi).

If I can make a suggestion based on my own routing, I'd leave the pump in the trunk. Put the filter between the tank and the pump. A simple cutoff valve there is also a great source of comfort...

Take a flex line from the pump to a through bulkhead fitting to get to the chassis.

From there run hardline to the front of the car following the original route. Go across to the other side on the (back) of the chassis member under the engine (follow the brake line routing). Thence it is a straight shot up to the front carb with a piece of flex line.

Much easier than it sounds. Honest.

If you put the pump in the PI location it's quite simple to do. You might also want to consider an inertia switch if you don't already have one.
 
Julian,

Yes, very important you determine the condition of your
fuek tank. My inside of the tank was covered with a 1/4"
thick layer of a jelly-like subtance and the bottom of
the tank had a layer of rust and sand. This was before
the complete system replacement.

Ask me my thoughts on PDO Pedro as I pulled off my newly
refurbished Jeff Palya carbs because the were gummed up
and spewing gasoline onto the hot exhaust manifold due to
sand and rust.

Shine light itno your tank, use a stick to take scaping samples from the sides and bottom.

regards,

d
 
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