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TR6 Fuel gage

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rmbobcat

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Restoring my 1973 TR6 (again) Fuel gage stopworking this summer so with the fuel gage already out of the car I pulled thefuel tank sending unit, the float was full gas, I would check the gage&sending unitwhile it out of the car so there are nosurprises when I finally fire it up in the Spring .

Thanks for any help Robert McDonald
 
Welcome to the BCF, Robert!

Post your questions over on the Triumph section and you'll get all the answers you need.

:cheers:
Mickey
 
Mickey is correct, post your question in the "Triumph" section.... you'll get loads more answers.
With that said, it is an easy fix for your fuel sender; I replaced mine with a brass one and all is good.
Brass float.jpg
Brass float part number.jpg
 
Fuel gage
Restoring my 1973 TR6 (again) Fuel gage stopworking this summer so with the fuel gage already out of the car I pulled the fuel tank sending unit, the float was full gas, I would check the gage&sending unit while it out of the car so there are no surprises when I finally fire it up in the Spring .

Thanks for any help Robert McDonald
rmbobcat48@gmail.com​
 
If you have a source of 10 volts, you can just hook up the gauge and sender, and verify that the gauge moves (slowly) to match the sender position. Or if you only have 12 volts (like a car battery), do the same test but realize the gauge will read somewhat high (and it's best if you don't try to drive the gauge above the 'full' mark as that may burn it out).

An easier (and more complete) test might be to reinstall them in the car, then use a bent coat hangar to grab the float arm and lift it.
 
The Ford float is a good replacement and snaps right into the float arm. However, before you put the new float on, look carefully at the formed end of the float arm and remove any sharp burrs left on the cut end of the steel rod. The first time I used the Ford float I didn't check this and a sharp burr cut through that nice new brass. Fortunately you can solder that sort of damage back closed!
 
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