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Frustration trying to adjust handbrake on Austin Healey BT7

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fishyboy

Jedi Hopeful
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Hi all,
I had a frustrating couple of hours trying to adjust the handbrake on my BT7 at the weekend. At the moment the handbrake pulls up to near the top of the ratchets before engaging. As the rear disk brakes seem properly adjusted I tried to take up the slack at the fork located at the rear of the handbrake cable, above the rear axle. A straightforward job I thought following Norman Nock's "handbrake" notes (downloaded from the web via British Car Specialists), but not for me.

With the handbrake fully-off removing the clevis pin from the fork was fine. I then turned the fork in several turns inwards and tried to reconnect the clevis pin but could not line up the hole in the fork with the hole in the balance lever. I could not do this on my own as there was too much tension in the link rods. Got my son to help, but still couldn't get the clevis in. I then removed the return springs thinking this would make it easier, but I still could get the holes to line. Only by adjusting the fork back outwards beyond the starting position could I get the pin back in. The result being that I now have more travel on the hand brake than when I started.

Is there a better method that I am using?
All so what is the best method to try a re-fit the springs? I tried using needle-nose pliers to stretch the spring but it took forever to get the hook end of the spring back in to the little hole on the link rod.

Thanks
Phil
 
When I adjusted the e-brake on my BT7, I took up the slack in the cable the same way you described, by screwing in the fork to shorten the cable. I also couldn't insert the clevis pin because the threaded portion of the cable extended to far into the fork, blocking the path for the pin. I solved the problem by cutting off about 3/8" of the threaded portion of the cable. All worked well after that.
 
Thanks Rob
I don't think the cable was the problem (but ill check). I just could not get the holes to align.
Phil
 
IF The cable is old it may be excessively stretched and needs replacing.????
 
Rob Glasgow said:
When I adjusted the e-brake on my BT7, I took up the slack in the cable the same way you described, by screwing in the fork to shorten the cable. I also couldn't insert the clevis pin because the threaded portion of the cable extended to far into the fork, blocking the path for the pin. I solved the problem by cutting off about 3/8" of the threaded portion of the cable. All worked well after that.
Click to expand...

I agree with Rob - cut a little off the threaded part; I also inserted a couple of lockwashers on the cable housing where it enters the fitting on the axle, thereby moving the housing forward maybe 1/4".
 
On my BJ 8 which has drum rear`s not disc`s I used the following method to adjust.
With the pin in,you may have to slacken the adjustment off to achieve this now. I applied the hand brake fully then on each rear wheel block the lever from returning. I used a metal rod or a thick screwdriver to do so. Then release the handbrake, the cable will be slack and you should be able to remove the clevis pin easily and take up the slack by use of the adjuster to a point when you can just get the clevis pin back in.
It may take a couple of attempts to get the adjustment correct but it worked for me.
 
Dave
That a great suggestion and ill give it a try at the weekend.
Where are you in Wiltshire? I live between Newbury and Andover.
Phil
 
Phil

I live in a village just into Wiltshire about 8 miles from Bath.
Hope the tip works. I have used it every year before MOT time to get the handbrake back to just a few notches of pull up. I suppose there will come a time when you run out of adjustment though. Good luck. If you by any chance are in the New Forest section of the Austin Healey Club my phone number and e mail address are on the fly sheet in connection with an event I am organising in September 2016
 
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