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Frustration is quickly mounting !!!!!!!

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KLUTZ

KLUTZ

Luke Skywalker
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Well, I have two people very interested in buying my TR7, for more then I was expecting. One just has to convince his wife. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
So, of course... What happens /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I drove the car to work on Sunday morning.. Ran beautiful on the highway down and back home in the evening. The one potential buyer was to come over and take it out for a test Sunday night. After I got home had a bite to eat, I went out to move the car. Turned the key... and CLICK CLICK. NO START. This has happened before, last year, but this time checking everything I could think of.. still no go. But, now, my right headlight won't go on either.. goes up now as I fixed that stupid problem, and I have a new light in it. Also, the blower doesn't work now. In the past it has always gone on and off when going over bumps though.. so. I have tried two starter relays, and the clicking comes from them, as I can feel it. I have checked all wires I can and all seems fine. I checked and cleaned the main wiring from the batery.. good. Fuses look fine.. Somthing though, there are two wires on the pasenger side on the left side that get hot when turning the key. I can't find them in the book, but one is white, and one has a cloth coating on it. They are wrapped together with a rubber like coating. I know this is like finding a needle in a haystack but any ideas?
I replaced the starter last year so I would think it is OK.
Anyone with a super knowlege of the wiring system please help. I have a good line on a TR6 to replace it and give me a new "Project."

Thanks

Paul /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
You never should have discussed selling your car in front of it. It overheard your plans, and doesn't want to leave! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

Seriously, don't know about the wiring, but are you sure that the battery/alternator are OK? Everthing you describe (except the hot wires) are high draw items, and if the battery is weak it might not have enough reserve to start. Will the car start with a jump?
 
Sure sounds like some sort of fuseable link that's getting hot. I'd run a voltage drop test across that section of wire. Checking power or continuity will not show if there is a restriction, voltage drop will.
 
Clean the battery posts with a wire brush if you haven't done so. You might want to pull the battery and have it tested.
 
Latest.. Getting power at the selenoid (sparks when wrench slipped) Battery posts nice and shiny, Put battery charger on, showing half charge, and when I turn the key, still get clicking and the needle on the charger goes slightly to - side of charge. (red).
The starter relay is the Blue one... Right? cause that is the one that is clicking.

Paul /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
i recently had some problems when i replaced the starter on my fhc. i with similar symptoms. i ran a dedicated ground to the starter motor from the strut turret bolts and that seemed to take care of my problem. its quick and worth a try.
 
It just keeps getting worse.. Now the left headlight won't go up and down
Anyone ever have the feeling of grabbing all the wires under the glove box and PULLING AS HARD AS YOU CAN ?????

Maybe if I tell it I don't want to sell it things will be better? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
When a guy came over to look at my TR7, the fog lights stopped working, as did the hazzard flashers!

TR7s don't like hearing you're thinking of selling 'em!
 
i always have trouble with my fhc when wife rides along. have you taken a stranger inside?
 
Good news
Got the battery tested... Came up better then new, so when we got home I mentioned the my wife that someone had mentioned to hit the starter with a hammer while turning the key. I had tried this, but not with turning the key. Well, two smacks, and away it went.
Now, on to why the right headlight won't go on, and why the left pod won't go up and down, and why the blower won't go.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Do I dare call the guy to come and take it out for a spin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Check the grounds between the engine and body, tranny and body, battery and body, starter and body and any other ground straps there may be. Sounds to me like there's a huge resistance in the circuit somewhere and those ground points are typically corroded and high resistance.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Good news
Well, two smacks, and away it went.
Now, on to why the right headlight won't go on, and why the left pod won't go up and down, and why the blower won't go.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Do I dare call the guy to come and take it out for a spin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Does the "starter hammer" go with the car when you sell it? The buyer is likely to need it again.
D /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Good news
Well, two smacks, and away it went.
Now, on to why the right headlight won't go on, and why the left pod won't go up and down, and why the blower won't go.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Do I dare call the guy to come and take it out for a spin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Does the "starter hammer" go with the car when you sell it? The buyer is likely to need it again.
D /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Got the lights working too... The light pods had cut through some of the wires to the lights underneath. Now, my Brights also work, which haven't worked since I bought the car.
Where does the power come from to the blower motor? There is a green wire and another wire I can't see which colour, going to the left side of it, one on the top, green to the bottom, but can't follow if the power comes from the fuse box, or some other supply.

The guy who wants to buy it called again today. So far I have been totally honest with him, and he is still trying to convince his Mrs.
Oh, and he will definatly get the Starter Hammer with the deal.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Unless I change my mind /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
I had a similar solinoid problem with my GT6 and it turned out to be dirt between the starter face and the mounting surface. Sometimes it would start and other times the solinoid would just click. After changing solinoids I took out the starter and checked it on the bench with booster cables, it was working fine. I cleaned the contact area and it turned over better and has worked ever since. Bad grounding.
J McAskill
 
Two whacks with the hammer and it starts means you need to replace the starter not that its fixed. The problem will come back at the very most inopportune time.
 
You are right Vettedog. Was fine for three days, now it happened again this afternoon.
I have a call into my LBC Guru right now.

Paul
 
Headlight pods sound like ground issues - almost always is in 7's and 8's. Probably happened when you were shifting everything around for the starter problem.
 
Headlights are fine now, Radford. Some wires had been sliced through by the pods going up and down. The blower motor works great now, but the starter problem is still the biggie. Just bought it last year too. My LBC guy was away for a few weeks, so had to buy it from a different LBC shop... Overpriced... never again from him.

Paul
 
I think what is happening is that the starter drive is hanging up on you. Banging with a hammer lets it pop out of the ring gear. A couple of shims in the right place and no more problem.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I had a similar solinoid problem with my GT6 and it turned out to be dirt between the starter face and the mounting surface. Sometimes it would start and other times the solinoid would just click. After changing solinoids I took out the starter and checked it on the bench with booster cables, it was working fine. I cleaned the contact area and it turned over better and has worked ever since. Bad grounding.
J McAskill

[/ QUOTE ]

Bad ground at the starter...happened to me and three starter rebuilds and one NEW starter later I fixed the problem with a wire brush and sandpaper...
 
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