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Frozen Bolts on Leaf Springs

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LanceLyon

Jedi Hopeful
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Happy New Year everyone!

I've been trying for some time to remove my leaf springs, but the front bolts are frozen in the bushings, and I can't drive them out.

Here's what I've tried: First of all a hammer, then a sledge with a drift. Second was penetrating oil. Third was heat, then lots of heat. The rubber has burned, the exposed metal has turned red, but it still won't budge. The area is too tight to get my cut-off wheel into, and the throw on my sawsall is too long(1 1//8") to be able to use it in the tight area. The last thing I have tried was to squirt muriatic acid into the area to try to get to the rust. Still no good.

I've been pretty patient over the last three weeks. The only thing I have not given a lot of time to was the muriatic acid, since I was hesitant to leave it on for more that 30 minutes before wrinsing the area with fresh water.

Does anyone have an idea that may have worked for them? I guess I could always use a cutting torch and then replace the brackets. I hope the combined experience of all of you will yield a good solution!

Thanks in advance!
 
Lance, when this happens the bolts must be cut out. A electric sawsall or a hacksaw blade wrapped in a cloth to protect your hand can be used. Cut the bolt adjacent to each side of the spring bush.--FWIW---Keoke--I do not like using a torch here.Also note the sawsall blade can be shortened.
 
Your best bet might be to put a spacer on the Sawzall shoe to reduce the stroke. Piece of wood & some contact cement. Shortest possible blade. I think that a lot of them have to be cut out.
D
 
I guess I'll have to see if I can borrow a sawzall with a shorter stroke. I have seen them with either 5/8" or 3/4" strokes. Mine is for carpentry/utility work and either the tip of the blade hits the frame member on the forward stroke, or if I back it off the blade withdraws itself from the bolt on the back stroke.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
I forgot to add on the last post, "What the @#*! are you guys doing on this forum on New Years Eve?!" I thought I was the only one boaring enough to be working on my project this night!
 
I just went through this fun with my BJ8. I used my 4.5 inch grinder with a thin metal blade on the right side. Because of the exhaust it wouldn't work on the left side. I was however able to use my super sawzall. Don't know what the stroke is but it's probably the same. Try jacking your car up higher for better access. I took the shoe off (can't remember why). Maybe because it's all about free-hand. Try using different speeds. Then try to avoid getting slammed between the sawzall and the floor. It a pain, but you can do it. You're smarter than those bolts.

Happy Healeyyear
Walter
 
LL,
I learned long ago that certain nights are not so good to be out celebrating with all of the drunks & with cops everywhere. A very good night to stay home.
D
 
This is funny since I just did this yesterday (on my Sprite parts car). It's very similar to the big Healeys. I didn't even bother trying to loosen the bolts....a new blade in the Sawzall and I got through the bolts easily. The use of a wood spacer (to reduce depth of stroke) would have been a nice idea (I used the low-tech version....my hand, in a heavy welding glove, "choking up" on the Sawzall).
By the way, you *can* go out on New Years Eve and avoid all the drunks and rascals: many towns now have "First Night" celebrations that are family-oriented, non-alchoholic and are sort of "midnight street fairs with music, etc". We went to our's last night (in Morristown, NJ) and it was great....of course, it didn't hurt that I was with the Mayor.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Yes, I too remember that task all to well. If memory serves I removed the nut and just cut the bolt off flush with the outside of the flange. Then just pulled the flange up until the spring just came out. Afterwards bend the flange the back straight. Just enough work to make you not forget to grease that location.
 
I also had to cut mine out. All the sparks are fun but be careful of flammables (hint - Guinness is non-flammable)
 
Just did mine on my phase 1 BJ8 today. I guess I was lucky. I was able to easily pry the rear pins out by levering on the outside shackle. After letting the front pins soak with PB Blaster a few hours, I was able to drive them out as well. Didn't need to haul out the sawsall. And didn't knick up my hands either. 2005 is looking good. New pins, bushings, and leaf springs are on order. Hopefully the rear end will raise up about an inch when they are installed. Lately, the car would ground out on anything higher than pea gravel. (That might be a slight exaggeration.) Question. When the new springs arrive, are they painted or coated? Should they be?
 
I had to cut mine out too. I used a saber saw.

(Hint) When I put it back together, I used anti-seize so they would come apart again in x years.
 
Shorn, all the replacement springs from the usual suppliers I have seen are painted a semigloss black.-FWIW---Keoke
 
My new rear leaf springs arrived from Moss yesterday, painted black as Keoke indicated. I had ordered 4 new bushings for the springs, which came with the order, but the new springs already had bushings installed, so the extras will be returned. But for those ordering springs, make the inquiry if they come with or w/o bushings. The great news is they were easy to install and they did raise the car up about an inch and a quarter. I am spot on the the right rear (27 in.) and about 1/2 inch low on the left, but it is not noticeable, so I guess I won't worry about it. The car actually sits about an inch high (27 7/8 in.) in the front, but again I don't think I will be too concerned about that. As far as I know the front springs are original, but all the shocks have been rebuilt. Glad I didn't need the reciprocating saw for the job, as I would be just as likely to cut a finger than the spring pins. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Shorn, the new springs will settle some after driving the car around a bit.---Keoke
 
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