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Front wheels won't spin, dsic brakes binding?

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ncbugeye

ncbugeye

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ncbugeye began to squeak a couple of weeks ago, it came from the right front. It started before I got my new wheels (the new Superlites from Hap Waldrop), but while changing them, I noticed that the right front wheel was really hard to turn by hand. It's still drivable, but I think I need to take a look at it. No play or wobble to speak of, just really hard to spin.

What might be wrong here? Brakes binding? Bearing shot? What else? Note that ncbugeye has front disc assemblies from (I think) the same 1974 Midget which donated its 1275cc engine.

I seek advice from the wise and worthy sages of the great Librica brotherhood.
 
First thing that I would do is to gently pry back the pads to be sure that they are away from the disk and then try to turn it. That will at least narrow down the search.
Bill
 
How old are the brake hoses? They break down, inside out and can cause the calipers to fill up with junk and bind.
 
I assume they are of 1974 vintage, the donor car was plundered in the early 1990s as far as I know, there is no sign of them being replaced more recently.
 
What year car is it? & does it have a dual or single brake system?
 
Tony, my sig says it all...

(I think the MC is original Bugeye)
 
So, its a single line system...rules out my prognosis.
 
billm said it: try getting the pistons back into the caliper some to see if the hub spins freely. I'm guessin' you're gonna have a hard time doing that. For sure do as John suggests: replace the flex lines. They deteriorate from the inside and "valve" pressure. Do the back one too, you'll have the system open and need to bleed it anyhow. Now's the time.
"Might as well". /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
I vote with John on the brake lines. They collapse with age. So the fluid goes out and doesn't come back. You might think about the braided steel lines. They will make you brakes feel more solid. Besides, they look really nice.
 
...duelling posts... or is that dualing... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Though it is very likely that the flex line is deteriorated, it is also likely that the caliper is rusty. If the pads are hard to pry back, loosten the bleeding nipple and try again. If it's still hard to pry the pads back, the caliper is rusty. At this diagnosis, remove both calipers, disassemble, clean, remove rust inside the cylinder, install new rubbers, if pistons are rusty then replace them, reassemble, and then install new flex lines and bleed the system.
 
I dunno what you've done so far. I got into this one late, but want to add a little advice.

If you haven't tried compressing the pistons, open the bleed screw. If a pressure buildup is there, fluid spurts out, rather than dribbles out, you've got pressure not releasing in the system. Where could that be, most logical is the hoses, 2nd is a pdwa valve or proportioning valve, 3rd is interior of the master cylinder, but this is rare on a disc brake car.

Hopes that helps in isolation.
If you don't get a pressure release look at the pistons to see if they are rusting or seals hardened and not letting the pistons return.
 
Wow... Thanks for all the ideas, BCF comes though again, and it looks like I have a busy weekend ahead of me.

I will definitely replace the hoses, and seriously consider the stainless steel sheathed ones, they are only a bit more expensive, so I might go for those. And will look at the condition of all the parts.

Again many thanks, ncbugeye will be happier soon.
 
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