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Front wheel tracking-toe in

Jeepster

Jedi Trainee
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I noticed that my front wheels looked to be toeing out rather than in so went down to the laser alignment centre to check and adjust.

Seems the the toe out was about 4 mm so tried to adjust to the settings from the manual.

Even with the steering adjuster bar screwed as far into the track rod ends as possible, I could only get 2 mm toe out! I need more adjustment.

Is is there anything else on the steering that could put the tracking so out? I'm sure it wasn't this bad last year. Also, I'm unable to adjust and reduce the toe in any further.
 
If your car is a late BJ7 or BJ8, the track rod could be screwed all the way into the ball end on one side and not fully seated on the other side. You'd need to unscrew it all the way off the car, then start the threads on each side, making sure the ball ends are centered on the rod. Then you should be able to adjust the toe-in to spec. Approximately the same technique could be used with the earlier cars with the tubular rod.

While you had it apart you could make sure each ball end has equally-deep threads.

Make sure you roll the car back and forth to allow the suspension to settle into the running position.

If you're inclined, you can easily build a toe gauge. See this picture and the next few after it:
https://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/52792133
 
Thanks for the advice Steve,

ill take ale a look and see if they are both screwed in equally.

I think ink the home made checker tool is a good idea too.
 
I finally managed to check that the track rods were screwed all the way in, one was a few threads out, so I evened them up.
So now both track rods are screwed in as far as they can be and I m still unable to get enough adjustment to create toe in.
Without extending the threads so I can get another turn or two on the track rods, I can't see what else I can do.

would anything else cause this problem?
 
Would anything else cause this problem, I m still unable to get enough adjustment to create toe in.

Damaged lower A frame assembly or Tower??
 
This an Unscientific WAG, but could the 'steering levers'--Moss part# 031-278 and/or 031-388--be reversed or installed incorrectly?
 
I agree with Bob. Wrong pieces or in the wrong place. Did you change your crossrod or ball ends since last year.
 
I finally managed to check that the track rods were screwed all the way in, one was a few threads out, so I evened them up.
So now both track rods are screwed in as far as they can be and I m still unable to get enough adjustment to create toe in.
Without extending the threads so I can get another turn or two on the track rods, I can't see what else I can do.

would anything else cause this problem?

As always, pictures tell the story better than descriptions.
 
It does seem to have got worse since driving it last summer. Nothing changed and no obvious damage.

I suppose some increased wear on the steering assemblies could add to this type of problem but there is nothing moving or wobbly and it passed the MOT test a few months back.
 
Tire pressure? Is the problem with tracking when driving? What makes you think you have a problem? Two years ago I thought I had a tracking problem and built a measuring device and found it was out of line. It was difficult to use. I bought one on Ebay and it is very easy to use and found the alignment was good after all. (about $50 bucks US)
 
Any idea what the thread size is for the rod that the track rods screw on to?

I'm going to have to put a few extra threads onto allow me to screw the track rods on a few extra turns to get a little more toe in.
 
Any idea what the thread size is for the rod that the track rods screw on to?

I'm going to have to put a few extra threads onto allow me to screw the track rods on a few extra turns to get a little more toe in.

Just take it to your local machine shop and have them do it on the lathe . Dont forget its left hand on one end and you need to add equal amounts of thread on each end .
 
I just replaced tie rods and ball joints on my BJ-8 and found I could not get enough toe-in either. Tried numerous times and checked everything to be sure parts on right. Finally decided my the new parts were just off a bit from the originals so I shortened the cross-rod about 1/8 inch on both sides. Worked like a charm and now have enough adjustment.
 
I just replaced tie rods and ball joints on my BJ-8 and found I could not get enough toe-in either. Tried numerous times and checked everything to be sure parts on right. Finally decided my the new parts were just off a bit from the originals so I shortened the cross-rod about 1/8 inch on both sides. Worked like a charm and now have enough adjustment.

Surely if Jeepster needs to put some more threads on the cross rod, then losing 1/8 on either end will not help, unless he was bottoming out as well.

BTW best of luck with the left hand thread.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Good point! You have reminded me of the left hand thread.

I had thought I could just wind a die on for a couple of turns to extend the threads. Obviously, there is a bit more to it than that. Yet again this forum proves it's worth!

Back to the drawing board.


Just take it to your local machine shop and have them do it on the lathe . Dont forget its left hand on one end and you need to add equal amounts of thread on each end .
 
I just replaced tie rods and ball joints on my BJ-8 and found I could not get enough toe-in either. Tried numerous times and checked everything to be sure parts on right. Finally decided my the new parts were just off a bit from the originals so I shortened the cross-rod about 1/8 inch on both sides. Worked like a charm and now have enough adjustment.
Thanks, but the tie rods bottom out on the end of the threads so shortening the rod won't improve things.
 
Jeepster

Just a thought

You only need to increase the thread on one end - the right hand thread end, then trim the end - take it all out on the right hand thread end. :applause:

:cheers:

Bob
 
I probably should have included that while my car is a BJ-8, my cross rod is an older BJ-7 version with male threaded ball joints. Therefore shortening the rod enabled me to thread the ball joints all the way in and get a shorter overall cross rod which gave me the toe adjustment I needed!
 
I probably should have included that while my car is a BJ-8, my cross rod is an older BJ-7 version with male threaded ball joints. Therefore shortening the rod enabled me to thread the ball joints all the way in and get a shorter overall cross rod which gave me the toe adjustment I needed!

From what I recall about the cross rods that I have seen, the threads at the ends go into thicker metal than farther into the cross rod. In other words, the threads only go so far into the cross rod; beyond that there is an open larger cavity. Therefore, it is important not to shorten the cross rod too much at either end. Cutting too much off would not leave enough threads to have a safe connection. Maybe yours is different, or you did not cut much off.
 
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