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Front wheel bearing installation

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Morris

Morris

Yoda
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I installed one side last night and tightened to the specified torque. But now the hub is difficult to turn.

What am I doing wrong? I am pretty sure I installed them correctly. The printing is on the outer race s and facing the inside of the hub.

Do I need shims? If so, where do I get those and how do I install them?
 
If these are the roller bearings you mentioned, I'm pretty sure there's no "torque".

Someone with more experience on these may want to jump in, but I was under the impression the roller bearings were set up to minimum lash and then back off one hole on the cotter pin.
 
Here's how it's done with standard bearings. See my note at the bottom about retightening after you put a few miles on it.
How to assemble everything properly?
1. Grease the outer bearing and press it into the hub (see Figure 1 for orientation).
– use a ⌀ 1 3⁄4" drift.
– do NOT press on the inner race (doing this will damage the balls/races)
2. Confirm it is FULLY driven home by measuring the distance from the inner race to the "shelf" that the inner bearing seats against. This should be 1.496" ~ 1.498". If you get more than 1.500", your bearings will be crushed by the hub nut torque and have a short life.
3. Insert the spacer
– apply some grease around the outside of the spacer, between it and the hub.
4. Grease the inner bearing and press it into the hub (see Figure 1 for orientation).
– use a ⌀ 1 15/16" drift.
– do NOT press on the inner race (doing this will damage the balls/races)
5. Lubricate the seal lip and press it into the hub (see Figure 1 for orientation). – use a ⌀ 2" drift. – shop manual calls for engine oil on the lip of the seal.
6. DO NOT pack the area between the seal and inner bearing with grease because when the bearings heat up the grease will expand and if this space is already full the grease will be pumped out past the seal and it will fail.
7. Check the stub axle for nicks / burrs where the bearings go, and where the seal runs.
– smooth surfaces will help assure the bearings come off easy next time, and avoid seal wear.
8. Assemble the brake rotor to the hub
9. Assemble the hub assembly to the stub axle
– don't damage the seal by catching it on any sharp edges.
10. Torque the hub nut (15/16" socket) to 46 ft-lb, or until the next castellated nut lines up with the hole (up to 70 ft-lb).
11. Install the split pin and the grease cap
– do not pack the grease cap full of grease (for the same reason as #6, above).

When I tried to get it to 46 lbs torque things were too tight and I just backed off 1 space on the castle nut, put in cotter pin, put wheel back on and drove for < 100 miles. Came back and checked and found I could now tighten to the correct spot on the castle nut. This was my experience YMMV.
 
Thanks Jim. That is pretty much what I did. The solution for me was to tighten to torque and loosen a few times. Now everything turns freely. And the car rides much more smoothly.
 
I just had the exactly same experience with binding at the specified torque and the solution was the same. Nice to see a confirmation!! :yesnod:
 
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