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General TR Front Wheel Bearing Felt Seal Direction

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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The manual says the felt seal faces "inward," and the manual shows that to be toward the engine. That would mean I tap the seal in from the felt side which seems awkward. But the manual clearly shows the seal to be outside the hub housing and to face the engine, which I suppose is inward. Am I missing something?
 
Yup, that's right. The felt side definitely goes towards the engine, as otherwise you would have the steel backing rubbing against the steel upright, which would be bad.

But you don't have to tap it into the hub if you find that difficult. The TR3 workshop manual gives an alternate approach, which seems to work fine: Just place the felt and retainer onto the stub axle, and install the hub over it. After, of course, setting the end float without the seal in place (as per the book).
 
TR3driver said:
Yup, that's right. The felt side definitely goes towards the engine, as otherwise you would have the steel backing rubbing against the steel upright, which would be bad.

But you don't have to tap it into the hub if you find that difficult. The TR3 workshop manual gives an alternate approach, which seems to work fine: Just place the felt and retainer onto the stub axle, and install the hub over it. After, of course, setting the end float without the seal in place (as per the book).
Click to expand...


Two quick follow up questions please: a) the Manual, in discussing hub installation and initial end float, says to tighten the hub initially to remove "slackness," then to mark the nut and spindle. I assume removing "slackness" means until the point of feeling at least some resistance?; and b) I still had to pound that felt seal into place; otherwise it wasn't pressing into its seat. Awkward drifting something in by using blunt force on squishy felt, but I suppose I could've used my hydraulic press. Was I doing something wrong?
 
I believe the intent is to tighten just until all play is removed (but still no resistance to rotation). Then back off until the holes line up, which at least in theory should give the correct end play. (I don't have the number handy, something like .005")

I can't help with driving the seal in, I've always Installed new ones the way I outlined above. Used ones go in easier (and honestly I've rarely seen any reason to replace the felt).
 
Finally got a chance to browse through the workshop manual ... it describes how to adjust the bearings in three different places, and all three are slightly different!

But anyway, I found the bearing clearance, which is given as .003" to .005", along with the note that it may be necessary to sand down the big flat washer to get the right clearance.

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I seem to remember there was some discussion about the fit of the steel part of the seal being too tight and also some the felt is too thick.

I damaged one seal attempting to get it in the hub. On the second one I think that I sanded the exterior of the steel shell so it pressed in easier.

David
 
If I measure end float after installing the bearings, it wouldn't seem right to measure at the top of disc while rocking it in and out, correct? That would almost double the reading. To measure correctly, I suppose it would be necessary to push and pull the wheel straight in and out? I've tried both ways, and the difference is marked. I know--just get on with it and stop the worrying. But, nevertheless, I don't want excessive wheel play, and it doesn't seem all that easy to reach a comfort point. I'm inclined to believe the tighter spec, pulling/pushing the disc straight in and out.
 
That's right, straight.
If you can, it would probably be better to mount the instrument to the vertical link, then rest the tip near the center of the hub. But most indicator stands won't reach that far.
 
Yes, thanks. I played with it and wrestled with my dial gauge. I think I've got it really close. About a year ago I noticed that the front hub float on my other car was too sloppy, and I had to reset it. This procedure seems much better. Thanks for the help.
 
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