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Front Suspension

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Atrus

Atrus

Jedi Warrior
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I'm trying to establish my budget here...

I get some play in the front end - looks like the lower bushing on the kingpin has quite a bit of play in it. If anyone needs to see what I deem "quite a bit", I could probably get a video. On jackstands, I can "pop" the front wheel when applying pressure at 12:00 and 6:00.

I understand that I won't really know the damage until I tear it down, but I want to guesstimate my cost...

It seems that many times it's just the kingpin that needs to be replaced and the bushings are fine? Am I correct here? Is this a distinct possibility? Is this something where I could try this by purchasing new kingpins and fulcrum pins, and if it doesn't work, have it rebuilt and reuse these new parts?

If not, what would I be looking at to get the A-Arms rebuilt? I believe Peter C does these? I'm just looking for a ballpark. $200? $800?

Really, I'd like to keep the car safe and on the road in 2008. I'm not looking to make it perfect - I have a plan to tear it on down (hopefully starting this fall) and rebuild it from the ground up. So, I'd prefer not to do any repairs that can't be disassembled (if that makes sense). If I am tearing the whole front suspension down, I'll be doing it again soon enough that I may just have to sit this season out if the cost is too much.

Anything else I am missing here?
 
Atrus said:
I'm trying to establish my budget here...

I get some play in the front end - looks like the lower bushing on the kingpin has quite a bit of play in it. If anyone needs to see what I deem "quite a bit", I could probably get a video. On jackstands, I can "pop" the front wheel when applying pressure at 12:00 and 6:00.
Anything else I am missing here?
Click to expand...

Kevin, try to "pop" with brakes applied. If gone, then the problem is wheel bearings.

Peter
 
Atrus said:
I'm trying to establish my budget here. (...) Anything else I am missing here?
Click to expand...

Well, sounds like you've got the basics... does the kingpin move in relation to its housing, or only in relation to the A-arm? Get under there, and have someone give it a good shake. They can both fail (and do!!) but I'd say the A-arm, with its threaded pivot pin *and* exposed cotter pin *and* rubber bushings is the bigger threat.

It might be worth getting a new kingpin kit just for the correct washers etc., and to be able to slot a new one in while you've got it all apart. Yes, there is some disassembly, but it's all pretty basic.

Moss or VB's rebuild kits should supply all the hardware... Don't forget the upper trunnion bushings, etc. You may find that your shocks, when disconnected, need rebuilding. Good time to do it... and when you get to your complete resto, you can always just put the whole assembly aside, knowing it's ready to go.
 
Hmmm...I'll try the brake trick to be sure. I pulled the wheel and popped it, and it seemed to be from the pin, down near the A-Arm. Looked like the housing was popping around on the pin.

I'll take a better look, hopefully Thursday or this weekend. Thanks!
 
It might not be to costly if you can do most of it yourself. You can buy new bushings from apple and sweat them in and the fulcrum pins aren't too bad. If it is the king pins and bushings then it might get more expensive. I would check where the play is at. Also the rubber A arm bushings are not too bad. You can even replace these with poly pretty cheap.
 
Everything can be assembled right on your bench - bushings, etc. are pretty inexpensive...if you need new kingpins reamed into your stub axles, PeterC's the man to go to (& his prices are good!)...but, you can assemble everything yourself.
 
Yes, good point Mark. Not publicized, but the big vendors (Moss etc.) *can* supply the threaded inserts. (The threads are usually trashed due to lack of lubrication, road grime, etc. They can be drilled out & brazed in by your local machine shop... Or as mentioned, you can send them out to one of the excellent vendors we have on the board here.
 
IMHO

Rebuild the whole thing if you plan on keeping the car and it will last you 20+ years with proper lubrication.

Pat
 
Good to know guys, thanks. Gotta find time to get out there and tear it down.
 
Atrus said:
Good to know guys, thanks. Gotta find time to get out there and tear it down.
Click to expand...
Now, THAT's the hard part!
 
Agreed Tony. Work + my MBA (3 classes this semester) are killin' me.

I could rip it apart, but then the daily driver has to sit in the driveway until I get it buttoned back up. Need to make sure I have plenty of time to do it all at once.
 
Atrus said:
Agreed Tony. Work + my MBA (3 classes this semester) are killin' me.

I could rip it apart, but then the daily driver has to sit in the driveway until I get it buttoned back up. Need to make sure I have plenty of time to do it all at once.
Click to expand...
You can't even think that way....I'd almost guarantee that unless somebody has done them, the 'clicking' you're feeling is bad king pins & that'll take PeterC a week or so to sort out!
 
I am really thinking it is the king pins. a week is more than fine with me. I have 5 weeks left this semester before I can really dedicate any time to it ;-)
 
...& there's lots you can do while he has the stub axles/kingpins...cleaning, painting, bushes, brakes, etc....so that when they arrive renewed all you have to do is bolt up clean parts.
 
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