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Tosh
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Following changing to larger wheels 15x7 (0" offset) and tires 205/75/15, I encountered an interference problem between the upper ball joint to control arm mounting bolt heads and the inner wheel rim.
It appeared that on full lock turn, left or right, forward or reverse, the inner rim was contacting the nut or bolt head of the outer control arm to upper ball joint connection. The sound of the inner wheelweight snagged and sliding around the rim? Not encouraging!
Initially, I tried modified steering stops; two different sizes, larger than stock. This did not limit steering travel enough to prevent interference.
To deal with this this problem I removed both upper ball joints and control arms...
Then....
How does it work?
Clearance between the wheelrim and the front/rear of the ball joint on turn in is approximately 1/2 ā. There is somewhat of a penalty on full turn in travel as the larger stops were left in place and adjusted to max limit therefore turning radius has increased. I notice this only when moving the car in my garage/driveway but the rims no longer contact the upper āAā arm.
Note:
I am running reversed upper 'A' arm pivots and therefore more negative camber. I love the feel of this, however, I have the feeling that it may exacerbate the interference on turn in during full lock.
My suggestion? Save time and trouble by:
1. Not using 7 ā wide wheels.
2. If using 7ā width wheels with 0ā offset try a 16ā wheel. The 1/2ā increase in diameter
would likely miss the bolt heads.
3. Using wheel spacer shim. I didnāt like this
alternative because of potential change in suspension geometry and (length of) wheel
stud issues.
A personal observation here. The stock front suspension is extremely flexible. There is a lot of force on the various components particularly during sharp turns. I have installed the GoodeParts suspension upgrade and it helps. I think that the TRF heavy duty front spindle kit is a necessity for these cars, even without larger wheels and tires. Of course, most of us already know about the reinforcing plates for the lower frame to 'A' arm brackets.
Also dimensions and, therefore, results may vary from ball joint to balljoint. As can be seen from the pictures the unmodified balljoint from TRF is made in Taiwan the modified one is from GB. There is a noticeable difference in mass between the two. This is not to say that the replacement is inferior.
P.S. With me, a project like this is never done.
Keep on, Merry Christmas.
It appeared that on full lock turn, left or right, forward or reverse, the inner rim was contacting the nut or bolt head of the outer control arm to upper ball joint connection. The sound of the inner wheelweight snagged and sliding around the rim? Not encouraging!
Initially, I tried modified steering stops; two different sizes, larger than stock. This did not limit steering travel enough to prevent interference.
To deal with this this problem I removed both upper ball joints and control arms...
Then....
How does it work?
Clearance between the wheelrim and the front/rear of the ball joint on turn in is approximately 1/2 ā. There is somewhat of a penalty on full turn in travel as the larger stops were left in place and adjusted to max limit therefore turning radius has increased. I notice this only when moving the car in my garage/driveway but the rims no longer contact the upper āAā arm.
Note:
I am running reversed upper 'A' arm pivots and therefore more negative camber. I love the feel of this, however, I have the feeling that it may exacerbate the interference on turn in during full lock.
My suggestion? Save time and trouble by:
1. Not using 7 ā wide wheels.
2. If using 7ā width wheels with 0ā offset try a 16ā wheel. The 1/2ā increase in diameter
would likely miss the bolt heads.
3. Using wheel spacer shim. I didnāt like this
alternative because of potential change in suspension geometry and (length of) wheel
stud issues.
A personal observation here. The stock front suspension is extremely flexible. There is a lot of force on the various components particularly during sharp turns. I have installed the GoodeParts suspension upgrade and it helps. I think that the TRF heavy duty front spindle kit is a necessity for these cars, even without larger wheels and tires. Of course, most of us already know about the reinforcing plates for the lower frame to 'A' arm brackets.
Also dimensions and, therefore, results may vary from ball joint to balljoint. As can be seen from the pictures the unmodified balljoint from TRF is made in Taiwan the modified one is from GB. There is a noticeable difference in mass between the two. This is not to say that the replacement is inferior.
P.S. With me, a project like this is never done.
Keep on, Merry Christmas.
