• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Front Suspension rebuild sequence

Share this page

Jayrz

Jayrz

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Kind sirs,

Once again I am humbled to ask for your assistance.

My 64 MGB seems to have worn out everything in the front end. I've aquired a big bag of goodies to correct this including poly bushings for the lower control arms, upper bushes, lower fulcrum pin etc..
So in the interest on once again using the great wealth of knowledge available here I ask you all.

What would be the most correct sequence of dis-assembly and refurbishment to replace all these wear items.

Also have acquired some OE springs for the rear to replace the aftermarket crap the PO installed that make my car look like a friggin dune buggy.

I have soaked everthing with PB Blaster penetrating oil for 16 hrs so it should be all ready to come apart.


Thanks in advance gentlmen.

Jay
 
Off the top of my head, assuming you plan to do everything...

Remove wheels
Remove hubs
Remove springs
Remove swivel axle assemblies
Remove shocks
Remove A-Arms
Remove steering rack bolts (4)
Remove cross member

As the Haynes manual would say...

Replacement is a direct reversal of assembly. :shocked:
 
The old Lindsay Porter book, something like "Guide to Purchase & Restoration of your MGB" or something like that was great for this. Had a white cover with a red chrome bumper B on it. I don't have it here so I can't give more specifics. Don't know if it's still in print or not, it was my bible rebuilding things like front ends on my B.

Colin
 
I'll be replacing mine including the cross member. If all goes well and I have the ability to. I will be taking pics of all the steps and will try and start a thread on it.
 
I guess I am not going t take the cross member off. Now taking the Spindles off to soak in the parts washer and see if they need to be rebuilt with new bushes and re-reamed.

The rear springs look like some aftermarket pieces for a ford bronco, can't wait to see the car sitting at a correct stance!
 
I replaced the entire rear suspension about 4 weeks ago. World of difference.
 
Jayrz said:
I guess I am not going t take the cross member off. Now taking the Spindles off to soak in the parts washer and see if they need to be rebuilt with new bushes and re-reamed.

The rear springs look like some aftermarket pieces for a ford bronco, can't wait to see the car sitting at a correct stance!
Click to expand...
Rebuilding the front suspension without replacing the suspension beam pads is sorta like putting on new shoes without replacing your wet socks! Its onlt 4 bolts & can be done without removing anything else......actually, were it me, I'd remove the wheels, remove the steering rack & drop the entire suspension beam with everything on it!
 
The Haynes book is woefully uninformative about line-boring the kingpin bushes, BTW. "Best left to pro's" and all that. Bentley has the correct boring dimensions. Sometimes I think those Haynes books were printed just to get folks into trouble deep enough to need a shop to bail 'em out. sheesh.
 
DrEntropy said:
The Haynes book is woefully uninformative about line-boring the kingpin bushes, BTW. "Best left to pro's" and all that. Bentley has the correct boring dimensions. Sometimes I think those Haynes books were printed just to get folks into trouble deep enough to need a shop to bail 'em out. sheesh.
Click to expand...
Yerp, PeterC is the guy for kingpin work......&, Doc, my Haynes manuals are good for chocking the wheels!
 
I ream my own, even made some "sleeves" to keep the reams in line. It ain't that difficult, just time consuming. I shoulda got one of the factory tools when they were around.

And I've kept that Haynes book around as a "shop copy" and for soakin' up oil spots. :jester:
 
I see,

Well if i am in this deep then it certainly wont be much harder to replace the beam pads. Actually, up until now I didn't even know the car had beam pads. Do they come in this red poly stuff too?

Had to run to the oil store to buy more solvent for my new parts washer tank, dang thing holds alot more than I thought.

I am hoping my spindles don't need the ream job and new bushings but,,,,,, everything else seems to be trashed so I am sure I know what to expect.
 
Yep, they come in that 'red poly stuff'....you're not ordering directly from the catalogs, are you?

Oh, make sure you bolt the stripped beam back up to the car before building the suspension....its easier to get to the bolts that way.
 
Jayrz said:
Well guess what,,,?

Yup, they need to be done, god I love this car!
Click to expand...

The good news is: If ya do it once, then <span style="font-style: italic">actually put grease in the things</span> on a regular basis, you have a lifetime rebuild. The DPO(s) neglected that "grease the six points" part, or you'd likely have good ones now. :wink:
 
Be sure to check the outboard holes in the lower A-arms for "ovality"... if the kingpin bushes were shot, I'm bettin' the lower joint bolt hogged out those A-arm mounting holes, too.
 
Ok,

back in from the garage. The bottom bolt will not come out. Spins around and doesnt appear to have ruined the holes in the control arms but the spindle moves up and down while I am turning the bolt so it has obviously worn itself a nice shoulder in there and the dang thing is probably seized to the bush in the bottom of the spindle because I've whacked it pretty friggin good and its not coming out. What now?
I am guessing I need to remove the lower control arm and dis-assemble each side to get it off. Will I have to cut the head off this bolt?
 
I'm for first knowing how deep you're into the thing. Have you got the springs out? That's the most concerning thing at this point.
 
Can you loosen the two bolts and the rear pin nut holding the forward a-arm in place? If so, then you can get the rest of the "assembly" away and ~perhaps~ whack the bolt thru using a deep socket and a BFH while it's braced onna floor.
 
Still with us, Jay?

<span style="font-style: italic">EDIT: Eatin' cold pizza inna garage, CAB on-hand, sittin' on stand-by.</span>
 
Back
Top