Front Suspension Part 2-

[Tinster]

OK:

A new thread for all us rookie wrenches.
I screwed up my front suspension install and now
the fasteners are badly rusted after only 6 months
and I have to gut everything and start over. It appears
several of us non-mechanics are working on the front
suspension. So I'm starting a new suspension thread.

I am wondering: should I purchase all new Grade #8 fasteners
and liberally coat them with red wheel bearing grease, before
I install them this time? I tried powder coating my new
Grade #8 fasteners last time but that failed miserably.
Grade #8s seem to really rust fast!!

Will using grease on the fasteners effect their performance?
Should the same Bentley torque values be used on greased
fasteners as on dry fasteners?

To answer a previous question:

Here's a photo of my boulder bouncer Jeep front suspension.
The beast lives outdoors, takes regular swims in the ocean,
drags a boat hither and yon. All maintenance by the book and
by the dealer. It appears I have an oil leak of some kind.
But the assembly looks sound and safe. I have full confidence
in this vehicle.

thanks,

d

 

[Brosky]

Whoa, whoa, whoa, cowboy!!!

I was just kidding about the soap and water routine.

You don't have to replace anything up there for that surface rust. If you did, every car on that island would be on jack stands every month.

DRIVE IT!!!!!!

 

[AweMan]

Surface rust I wouldn`t worry about too much. In the atmosphere you live in it is inevitably going to do some rusting no matter what you do other than have every part made out of stainless steel. And that not practicle. I say drive it till the wheels fall off then rebuild and drive it some more. As far as the jeep goes My best guess is that the inner wheelbearing seal is in need of some attention. Quite common actually on 4x4 vehicles. The hub is a little tricky to dis-assembel and re-assemble, you`ll need a special socket to get the wheelbearing nut/s off and some snap ring pliers to remove the intergal gears in there {inside of the hub} Not really technicaly difficult just pay attention to how it comes apart, make your notes, take pics of the dismantling proceedures. You can accomplish it no doubt.

 

[rlandrum]

Is that a TJ or an XJ you got there Tinster.

I've got my own boulder bouncer...
https://xjguy.com/xj/flexing.jpg

As for your surface rust, I wouldn't bother tearing it down to fix it, since it's really only affecting appearance.

And for the Jeep... that could be (assuming it's a Cherokee) fluid from the leak prone winshield wiper bottle located on the inside of the front fender. Mine leaks.

As for the hubs on the TJ and XJ, they are sealed units, and I've always just replaced them as a whole unit. Once the axle shaft is out, there's three bolts that hold the hub to the spindle (or hub carrier, I guess). As I recall, the nut is a 36MM.

 

[Moseso]

I'm with them! Don't re-rebuild a 6 mo. old suspension job just because you got some salt-air patina on it.
Wait for something actually bad to happen. It probably won't be that long...

 

[DNK]

You know Paul, I was hoping he was kidding when he threatened to do it in the other post. We have to be REAL careful.

 

[DrEntropy]

just because you got some salt-air patina on it.
Wait for something actually bad to happen. It probably won't be that long...

"Salt-air patina"!!! Perfectly apt description!

...as for the waiting for something to fail posit, well... it's correct. It's a 'rumph, innit?


<scuttles back under the rock>

 

[Tinster]

You know Paul, I was hoping he was kidding when he threatened to do it in the other post. We have to be REAL careful.

Hey !! Watch what you say.

An auto mechanic I ain't, as has been proven BUT
I was quite adept with my Erector Sets as a kid.

Nuts and bolts and washers I am capable.
I've already got a good start on the rebuild.
I'm NOT gonna mess with the new coil spring
or spring pan. Too bloody scary the first time.

All the new bushings I installed still look good
to me so I'm just gonna change out the fasteners
(new grade #8 with red grease) and the various ball
joint gizzmos.

I should be back driving in no time!!

d

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]so I'm just gonna change out the fasteners
(new grade #8 with red grease) and the various ball
joint gizzmos.[/QUOTE]

Are you getting a little case of Shipwrights down there in that freezing cold 72 degree weather??? Whatever you replace will be rusty in three more months, so why bother?

Do the differential and drive the car.

 

[BwTR3]

I have to agree with every one on the rust part. As for the (tq) torque part. In the avation side on mechanics we use a 10% increase on tq value Now granted we mainly use in lbs not ft lbs. That being said I wouldn't really increase the tq.

 

[PeterK]

Dale,

If you're really serious about replacing the hardware with new grade 8, be sure to get the gold zinc plated grade 8. I read somewhere recently that the black oxide grade 8 is not recommended for exterior exposure.

 

[Tinster]

+Thanks PeterK!!

I'll ask the speciality fastener guys next week
when they open shop. I appear to have the incorrect
black variety. Pricey they are.

Appreciated for sure,

d :thumbsup:

 

[PeterK]

boltdepot.com is a good source but not sure if they ship to P.R.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]boltdepot.com is a good source but not sure if they ship to P.R.[/QUOTE]

And if they do, Peter, it's probably for a very healthy surcharge.

Even the prices for USPS postage have gone up to the island. I priority mailed Dale a 2lb. 8"X8"X8" box last week, for almost as much as what it cost to send him a driveshaft just over a year ago.

 

[DNK]

Hey dale, If your collecting driveshafts I got one for a TR8

 

[DougF]

Peter, you are right. Black oxide gives no protection to the elements. The color of zinc doesn't matter. Some manufacturers coat with gold just to help differentiate Grade 8 from the others. All of the Grade 8 zinc coated fasteners I sell are silver.
Tinster, the red grease will stop the rust for a while. It will also serve as a magnet for road grime. Eventually, it will probably wash away or wear away from normal driving.
I agree with everyone else about the rust. The most important part of that connection is the thread to thread where you can't see. After 6 months, it is probably looking like new.