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Front Springs ......

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George Zeck

George Zeck

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Hi Guys -

I've been away for awhile and have decided to get a jump on the 'seasonal' repairs before Febuary and 0 degree's in my garage.

I looked at ebay for front springs --- nothing but used springs (which I already have). Any knowledge if any other car would fit? I could order from Moss @ $110 ea (approx) but they're a place of last resort in my opinion due to quality.

Also, which poundage (?) should I use (it's a driver not a racer)?

Also doing the ususal suspects (bushings, bolts, etc).

Tx-

George
1964 AH Sprite MK II
 
I got a used set of fronts from a 67 Sprite and put them on my 78.
This lowered it just a little, the 1500 springs are taller and stronger.
The biggest improvement I've made on that car for suspension was the new bushings and front shocks from Peter C. of World Wide Imports.
https://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

It's nice just to call up and ask for Peter and have him give you personal service, or order online if that's what you like.

My front shocks were dead so all my ride was provided by the springs.
Bouncy would be one way of putting it.
 
I put the springs on that spridetmania offers, they are 340lb if I recall. I really like the way they ride, not harsh but better balanced than the old stock ones. They lowered the car a bit, no rubbing or clearance issues reported, and I drive the heck out of the car.
 
I actually bought the Moss ones through a reseller. Less expensive than I orig thought. Hope the quality is there. Then again, compaing to a 47 year old springs with rotten bushings. The proverbial bnar is pretty low.

Thanks -

Geo
 
Those 340# springs are fully an inch shorter than 1275 springs. I bought cause Moss claims they lower the car a "bit" and I wanted to get in on one of there discounts. I havn't fitted them cause an inch shorter I suspect will be more than a "bit".
Bugedd, can you take a guess at how much lower they are???

Kurt.
 
The car is sitting about 1" lower. It puts the wheels perfectly centered in the wheel arches, so the reveal all the way around is equal.
 
They are an inch shorter, but they are stiffer, so the lowering ends up being about an inch (instead of the 2" you might assume). I recently removed mine from my Midget as I want it to be more of a comfort ride.
 
340's on here.
 

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Thanks guys, I figured the stiffer spring rate may account for a little less lowering and the pics make it appear they are just right as far as height goes.
Now, Trevor has me scared as to ride! I know he likes a spirited drive. I guess I will just have to give them a try and decide for myself.

Kurt.
 
I have aspiration sto have them in within the end of next week. I'll report back. The sizing does look better but the comments about the stiffer ride scares me a bit. Then again, with the way I drive it ......
 
The ride was was OK. And they (along with some other changes) helped the handling of the car. However, after I started driving the Sprite, I decided that I'd use it for spirited driving and turn the Midget into a more pleasurable cruising car.

Don't forget to reset your toe-in after installing the springs.
 
Guys,
my Haynes manual says that to remove the front coil springs on my B/E I should buy some longer fully threaded bolts (4.5 inch minimum), then remove two bolts from the spring seat and replace with the long bolts. Then remove the other two regular bolts, and slowly back out the long bolts until all spring tension is taken away. Then apparently the spring comes right out through the bottom spring seat hole.
I haven't looked under the car yet, but is this how it's done?

Fred
 
Yep, unless you're braver than Dick Tracy. Then you would undo the top trunnion bolt with jack under the bottom spring pan. Lower the jack and let the spring fly!! Not recommended but used by some.

Kurt.
 
Yep, unless you're braver than Dick Tracy. Then you would undo the top trunnion bolt with jack under the bottom spring pan. Lower the jack and let the spring fly!! Not recommended but used by some.

Kurt.
 
I used a jack under the spring pan and lowered them out and it went just fine.
 
There are several ways to do this, one is the one you described with the longer bolts.

I've had mine in & out several times and this is what I do - YMMV:

Jack up car and put jack stands under the swivel pin end of the A arm.
Then I use a small jack under the spring pan, removing the tension from the spring but only slightly - not enough to raise up from the jack stand.
Undo the bolts then lower the spring pan and spring by letting off the jack under the spring pan. Others have said before that sometimes the spring will stick and then you have to "kick" it but that's not my experience.

Having two sizes of floor jack makes many things easier, I have a small cheapo floor jack that's good for stuff like this and a big 3 ton jack I use for 'big' stuff like lifting up the family van.
 
I have done it for 30 years that way, never a prob.
 
jlaird said:
I have done it for 30 years that way, never a prob.
Click to expand...

Which way, Jack, the long bolts?

Thanks all
Fred
 
TulsaFred said:
jlaird said:
I have done it for 30 years that way, never a prob.
Click to expand...

Which way, Jack, the long bolts?

Thanks all
Fred
Click to expand...

Jack told me how to do this a long time ago, the method I described (take or give a little) was how Jack said to do it.
 
Thanks Rick, if it's worked for you and Jack's done it for 30 years that's good enough for me!

Now, how about reinstalling them?

Fred
 
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