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Front Shroud Adhesive

TodE

Jedi Hopeful
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I am finally putting my 1955 BN1 back together! With the body work and paint behind me it's time to test my memory on how it goes back together! I will need lots of help.

Two things: What is a good adhesive to use on the front shroud? I remember a post, but could not find it in a search. I want something that if I had to take the shroud off, I could without damage. The original stuff was hard enough to get off.
Second. I have read posts about leaf springs as to replace or use ones that came off the car. It appears to me that alot of people bought new ones only to put the old ones back on! No leafs are broken, I bought new bushings that I am going to take to the local spring shop to put in. Are there any measurements to take with me to the shop as to check the correct arch? I remember someone saying that there are distance measurements in the repair manual??

Thank you in advance,
Tod
 
What is a good adhesive to use on the front shroud? I remember a post, but could not find it in a search. I want something that if I had to take the shroud off, I could without damage. The original stuff " DUM DUM" was hard enough to get off.

A brand I have used is 3M panel bonding adhesive and know of another brand called Fusor.

Ford body caulk can also be used. However, I have never used Fusor.---Keoke
 
I think we'll use this when we reassemble our BN2 (assuming you're talking about the gunk between the shroud and the cowl; that's the only adhesive-like material we found on our car):

https://www.amazon.com/Strip-Caulk-60-NOR82761-Category/dp/B000FN6KLA

As for the springs, how was the height and level from side to side of the rear end before you disassembled the car? Our BN2 was less of a taildragger than many others, up to pre-Phase II BJ8s, and fairly level as seen from behind so we only took the springs apart, cleaned and painted everything and put new zinc strips between the leaves. FWIW, my dad had the springs of his '55 T-Bird re-arched and it didn't help with a side-to-side tilt.
 
Keoke, Will the 3M stuff come off it you need to get the shroud off? Some of that panal adhesive stuff they use on new cars you have to get 3 gorilla's, and someone strong that has a weak brain! If it ever comes off.

Tod
 
Bob,
Could you explain in more detail what you did to the rear leaf springs, specifically what ind of paint and primer you used and what/where you purchased zinc strips.
thanks,
rich

Here's a good link to using the 3M strip caulk for the front shroud installation and making sure there are no "leaks". 3M strip caulk on front shroud
 
If Bob's strip caulk is similar to "duct seal" I'd think it would be a good choice; should provide all the sealing (water, engine fumes, heat, etc.) and still come apart without distorting the shroud. For the next restorer...

I use a similar strip caulk made by 3M to reseal the battery box in BMWs, but it's only similar in shape; the material is butyl rubber, and it is quite tenacious. It would be terrible to dislodge something as large as a shroud.

I use a particular Fusor product ALL THE TIME. Their #805 wheelhouse coating is what I use to mimick the textured coating on the underside of the BMWs I work on. I also used it inside my Healey's wheelwells to silence the din of stones being thrown into them. Fusor is a major OE supplier, so there's no reason to doubt the quality of their products or their application claims.
 
Randy,
When you coat the top of the body, do you coat the entire top before you put the shroud on?

Another dumb question reguarding the springs. What keeps the zinc in place? Bob, your question on how the car rode? It was ok is far as clearance, but I think the left side was lower as viewed from behind.
I see alot of British cars like this? Why is that?? Problem!! I don't think I tagged the springs left or right!!!!!??? ***#@&

Thanks,
Tod
 
TodE said:
Keoke, Will the 3M stuff come off it you need to get the shroud off? Some of that panal adhesive stuff they use on new cars you have to get 3 gorilla's, and someone strong that has a weak brain! If it ever comes off.

Yes it can be removed. However, in most cases with the exception of the Ford body caulk a very light heating with a torch is required to soften the adhesive.--Keoke

Tod
 
When you coat the top of the body, do you coat the entire top before you put the shroud on?----NO!!!!

Another dumb question reguarding the springs. What keeps the zinc in place?
-The spring clips.

Bob, your question on how the car rode? It was ok is far as clearance, but I think the left side was lower as viewed from behind.
I see alot of British cars like this? Why is that?? Problem!!

Overweight Drivers--- :laugh:

I don't think I tagged the springs left or right!!!!!??? ***#@&

That is OK does not make any difference they are not handed.---Keoke-- :laugh:
 
richberman said:
Bob,
Could you explain in more detail what you did to the rear leaf springs, specifically what ind of paint and primer you used and what/where you purchased zinc strips.

Rich,

I looked around and found zinc available in sheets (it's used for countertops). Then, somewhere--don't remember where--I came into contact with a man who had just restored his springs and had some left over. His mechanic cut the correct lengths and widths and sent them to me for a nominal charge. Getting the zinc--I think it's roughly 0.025" thick give-or-take (there should be some in your springs you can mic)--is the easy part; cutting it properly probably requires a large shear (although you should be able to do it by hand).

We used standard, off-the-shelf primer and black enamel for paint.
 
Be careful of new replacement springs. If you get the springs from the usual suppliers, the car will sit too high. (like mine). I've been told Martin Jansen (Jule) makes a correct spring, but it ain't cheap.
 
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