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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

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If one adds extra lights to the badge bar will this suck even more power from the dash lights making them more useless? Can anyone suggest a difference in the ones available? The only reason for my doing this is there is an obvious space for them on the bar. Thanks.
 
I don't think you can just add lights to the existing wiring circuits.

The existing wiring will not handle the extra load of additional lights. You will need to add a relay with a new supply wire from the (A1) terminal on the dynamo control box & a new wire from the relay to the new lights. These wires should be 12 gage. Then add a dash switch With a lighter gage wire going to control the relay.

Driving or fog lights will add around 5-6 amps per light to your total dynamo & battery load. With the new lights turned on you will be approaching the max output capability of the stock dynamo. The lights may dim a bit when the engine is idling or running slow.

I think most people just convert everything to negative ground & switch to an alternator when adding this much electrical load. The relay & wiring are still needed.

Not much need for a badge bar without lights unless you want to add some badges. Some like the looks of the extra junk on the front, some don't.
D
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dave Russell:
...Some like the looks of the extra junk on the front, some don't.<hr></blockquote>

Well, I guess I know which you are.

Actually, with so many headlight upgrades available and the unlikelyhood of taking our cars off road driving lights would seem to be mostly for looks rather than looking.

G (with no junk on the front)
 
I tried several different sealed beam headlight units. since the "blue" seemed to be the "in" thing & they are so glaringly obnoxious to oncoming traffic I thought they might put more light on the road. Wrong - they put less usable light on the subject than the 10 year old originals. Must be a fad.

I finally ended up with Sylvania 'Halogen XtraVision" #H6024XV.
They work well enough that "driving' lights are not needed & I have never had to drive the AH in fog.
D
 
Not only will the stock wiring not handle the additional load, neither will the stock generator which is rated at 22 amps. Figuring 6-7 amps for a 70/80 watt headlight and about 5-6 for even the small fog or driving lights, running lights, plus something for ignition, OD, etc. etc. and you are at or below zero. I did not find this out until I installed an ammeter and no longer wondered why my lights dimmed when I came to a light. A 70 amp alternator (Prestolite)which has a two-piece pulley and accomodates the wide 100 fanbelt, now keeps things at a minimum of 13 volts no matter what, even with the stereo blazing.
 
I added a set of replica "flamethrowers" to my BJ-8 badge bar last year and have noticed no change in the electrical operation of lights stereo or anything else for that matter. I took power from the solenoid, intalled a new switch underneath the dash, and used a relay to make every thing work out, which it does quite well I might add. If needed, I think I still have a copy of the installation proceedure (I don't have it on my computer, I'd have to snail mail or fax it) BTW, I'm using my original generator.

ps I like the "junk" on the front.......

David Z.

[ 04-08-2004: Message edited by: slider ]</p>
 
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