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MGB Front hub

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Carlbanan56

Carlbanan56

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I am currently trying to get my granddad's 1975 MGB to run. It has stood still for about 25 years. I have just switched my break disc breaks and was having a look at the wheel bearings. When I put everything back together my left wheel got very hard to turn. When I lost the bearing retaining nut the wheel turned freely again. My question is should I add or remove shims?

Young and inexperienced :smile:
 
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When a car sits for a long time, the wheel bearings usually get indentations in the race. You need to completely clean the bearings and races and look at them with a magnifying glass…. Probably Bad.
 
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Carlbanan56 said:
I am currently trying to get my granddad's 1975 MGB to run. It has stood still for about 25 years. I have just switched my break disc breaks and was having a look at the wheel bearings. When I put everything back together my left wheel got very hard to turn. When I lost the bearing retaining nut the wheel turned freely again. My question is should I add or remove shims?

Young and inexperienced :smile:
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Add shims to increase the space between the bearings, so the bearings don't bind.
 
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Also pretty sure it is a castellated nut holding the hub on. Typically you wrench it tight and then back one flat to allow the cotter pin to fit. Shims won't make a difference if overtightened.
 
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JPSmit said:
Also pretty sure it is a castellated nut holding the hub on. Typically you wrench it tight and then back one flat to allow the cotter pin to fit. Shims won't make a difference if overtightened.
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Yes, it's a castellated nut. The torque spec is 40 to 70 ft-lbs. The wide latitude is to allow you to align a slot in the nut with the hole in the axle for the cotter pin. The end float should be 2 to 4 thousandths. So, if the bearings are binding, there aren't enough shims.
 
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