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Front flahers/markers

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bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
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I was hoping some of you could enlighten me on the function of the front flashers on a bugeye. Currently, my flashers come on with the headlights, and do not flash. From the best I can tell, they are wired the same as the rear, so they should only come on with the flick of the signal switch. Or...are they always on, and they flash when the turn signal switch is flipped? I looked at the color code for the wiring, and all seems proper there. and the harness is a factory style, so I can't see how someone could mess it up?
 
So this is how they should work: The front flasher lights should be two filament bulbs, #1157. The dimmer of the two filaments comes on with the running lights (first turn of the light switch, and also with the second turn when the headlights come on). The brighter of the two filaments at the front flash with the turn signal switch. The rear flashers are single pole, and just light with the flashers.
You could have the wrong bulb or socket in the front....should be two filaments and two contacts.
good luck, cheers, Scott in CA
 
On 60 FROG The front and back turn signal lights come on when the lights are turned on and flash on and off when the toggle switch is turned right or left.
The turn signals blink on and off when the lights are not on when you turn the toggle switch right ot left.
 
Scott's got it. Most likely someone fitted single filament socket's to the front. Try to trace your wires...there should be two leads to the front socket's...one to the rears. I think it would be a little difficult to fit the wrong bulb but I suppose that is a possibility.

Kurt.
 
Likely, correct sockets have three leads going to them. A Ground, Parking Lamp +, which is common to both Front Lamps, and L or R Turn Signal Lamp. I made the same mistake with Bugsy I when I bought a set of Beehive Lamps off of E-Bay.
 
You can use the same three lead sockets for the front and back, just hook up the flashers to the brighter of the two filaments both front and back. Then hook up the running lights at the front to the remaining terminal. No need, nor wires available as designed, to hook up running light wires to the remaining terminal.
Scott in CA
 
Three leads...been awhile. Till the rubber rots they are pretty trouble free.

Kurt.
 
Scot the rears only only have 2 leads not 3.
 
What I was saying is that you CAN use the three lead sockets in the back as well, just don't wire up the extra lead. Who knows what Edd has in his car. Scott in CA
 
What is the dual filament bulb number for the fronts?
 
Can someone advise on this, I took the marker out, and it looks to be correct, with the 1157 bulb. Green and red to separate terminals on the bottom, black up to the top.
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Also, flashers work fine with the lights off, just stay on with the lights on and no flashing.
 
Sometimes these wiring problems have to investigated in baby steps. These bulb holders are well known for a variety of problems.
First thing: Red wire is for the side lamps (called marker, running, parking, etc). The left side flasher wire should be green with a red stripe.
The right side (we call it the passenger side) is green with white stripe. This according to the original BE wiring diagram. Don't understand how it could be green, as that is 12v. power all the time through the second fuse (first fuse is for the horn).
Get yourself a 12V. test lamp, or use a volt meter (if you know how to use it). Disconnect all three wires from each of the flasher/side lamp sockets in the front. Don't let them touch each other or anything else. Connect your test light between the red wire and the black wire. Your test light should light when the lighting switch (at the ignition key) is turned to the first and second position. Record the results. Now disconnect your test light and connect it between the green wire and the black wire. The test light should flash on the right side when the flasher switch is pushed to the right, and on the left side when it is pushed to the left. Record the results. Let us know the results and we can provide additional help.
Also, are you sure this is factory wiring, or has someone made their own harness?
Cheers,
Scott in CA
 
Scott, would a test light or meter flow enough current to make the flasher cycle??? I guess all you can do is try it.

Kurt.
 
The green wire pulses the volt meter with lights off. The red holds constant voltage with lights on. With the lights on, the green pulses with the signal on. The bulb is brightest when lights on, the flasher is dimmer, implying the flasher wire is powering the weaker filament. You cannot see any flashing with the lights on.
 
Clean and check the green wire closer. It really should have a red tracer on the left and white tracer on the right. It sounds like the wires are giving the expected results. If the flasher is dimmer as you said then I think the green and red wires are switched at the socket. Should be a simple fix but I'm not familiar with the BE sockets.
 
Thats what I was thinking of trying. Fellow who wired it up soldered them, making it a PITA to swap around. I'll try that today.
 
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