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front end maintenance

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aeronca65t

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Did some normal, pre-racing maintenance to the front end.

Replaced both A-arms with new ones (plus that lower trunion-threaded pin).

Also all new plastic suspension bushings, new brake rotors and new brake pads.

King pins and tie-rods ends are still OK. Wheel bearings are still good (new from last Fall.....just torqued them back up to 40 ft. lbs)

I did new pistons, rings and rod bearings a few weeks back. Also took about 0.010" off the head to clean it up and installed all new valves. Naturally all oil and filters and other fluids changed too.

Car should now be ready for ~Jefferson 500~ next weekend.

DSC_0788.jpg
 
Curious Nial. Is the original shock just a pivot point now or does it work as well? What do you run for front springs? Whats the auxiliary shock rate?

I'd like to set up the best handling square spridget I could for the street.

Kurt.
 
The lever shock is disabled so it's just an arm.

500 lb front springs.

The compression and jounce rate of the gas shocks is probably similar to the original lever dampers. But the gas units are less prone to fade over longer sessions. I raced this car in enduros for years in club racing, so I needed to be able to rely on the shocks for 3 or 4 hours of racing.
Based on my observation, about half the guys I'm currently racing with in vintage use uprated lever shocks. I may eventually try that but I've been pleased with these for over 10 years. They are Monroe Road Sensor shocks # 5877R
 
Thanks Nial, Iv'e always been satisfied with Monroe shocks. I imagine 500# springs might be a little brutal on the street. What sway bar is that?
 
Nial, we're using Redline's synthetic suspension oil now, and find there's no fade or cavitation.

Peter
 
3/4" front bar. I'm not sure what brand....I pulled it off a junk car. No bar in the back (I tried one and hated it).
But I do have a home-brew panhard rod in the back.
Plastic bushing all around, except for the kingpin to lever arm bushing which is stock rubber bushing (it's just my opinion, but I think it's good for that area to have a little "give").
I have about 3 degrees negative camber which I honestly wouldn't be afraid to run on the street in these cars. I used a spacer under the front lever arm mount and also slotted the 3 mounting holes in the lever arm body to allow the change in camber.
Most Spridget racers use stock or even softer rear leaf springs, but over the years, I've come to prefer slightly stiffer rear leafs (I've added two leafs).
This makes the car slightly tail happy, which is more fun. :friendly_wink:

I re-arched the rear leaf springs cold, on a homemade press (to lower the car).
 
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