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TR6 Found a TR6 locally

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Steve

Steve

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Sold the MGB, and am on the lookout for a new toy. I spotted a TR6 for sale down the street, and I was hoping for some pointers on what to look out for.

Car looks straight, no rust, chassis looks good, no sign of repairs or bodges covered with goop......looks like it's black paint on there, very clean.... Seats are not original, they are like corduroy, odometer shows 95k. Top looks good, newer, just one nick that I could see. He wants 9k or best offer...... Any advice?

Thanks in advance guys......
 
Most common thing I've seen is the frame gets punky right where the trailing arms for the rear suspension attach at the outboard point.
That would be right behind the rocker panal, in front of the rear wheels. take a little screwdriver and poke around.
The design of the frame there made it catch all the spray off the tires.
There's lots more, but most of the rest of it can be repaired easier.
 
Hi There Steve;

What yr is She, Just Curious? Chrome Bumper or "Huge" Rebound Bumpers? OD or Not?

Having owned a `72 Super Sweet One just 3yrs ago; This is Only My Opinion: Bought for $8K from S. CA: Sold for $11K; Needed "Nothing"!!

Yr of car is really not important / Non Rebound Bumper versions always bring more $$$ / Mileage on Odomoter is always a Question mark so, Not Important if she sounds good / Check Oil Pressure, Hot & Cold Running / Run Car, (Idiling), till she reaches temp & see how Cool or Hot she`s running, this will give you insight into the Rad / Check all seams between Fenders and Body; Prone to Rust, Expensive Repairs / Drive at Highway Speeds to check for any vibration in Front End / Bring a Magnet with yourself and check the entire Body for Bondo / She should shift quietly and without effort / For $9K she should be in pretty nice cond / Send us some pics so we can physically see what your talking about:

Best Wishes;

Regards, Russ
 
Steve,

With the engine running and the tranny in 1st gear,
let out the clutch pedal rather abruptly. Listen and
feel for any "clunk" or "crunch" sounds. That could
be an indication of some time consuming and $$expensive
rear end rebuild of any number of culprits. Also try to
feel if the clutch pedal seems "sticky" when you let up
on it. That could be a broken clutch cross shaft taper
pin which a rather major repair.

Also, the most important of all- Compare this photo to
the guy selling the car. If your seller resembles him
even a little- run away as fast as you can.

PedroScam.jpg


best wishes,

dale
 
Steve;

In following what Tinster had to suggest: Put the car in ea. gear (1st thru 4th) and let the Clutch out to see if there`s any "Slippage" between gears:

Simple test & could save a ton of $$$:

Having Fun yet;

Best Wishes; Russ
 
Make sure you fit comfortably in the car. Sixes don't have the leg room that the others provide. The rails can be moved back to allow more space, but that's more work.
 
Steve, unless you want a show car and want to do nothing to it, a clutch isn't that big a deal to change on these things.

I'd recommend that you concentrate on the frame and the condition of the body. These two are the biggest expense and the most trouble to repair. Especially the frame...

As has already been said, the rear suspension where the A-arms attach is the biggest spot. The other thing to consider is the weak point where the diff attaches to the frame - check for a clunk as you change gear.

Other common rust spots include under the battery (check very carefully if they have put a tray in) and the footwells. You can see this better from underneath - it starts right where the floor ties to the bulkhead. The sills and inners you'll check anyway I'm sure.

A good test for originality (and bodges) is the seam between where the rear wings meet the deck lid. On an honest car there is a gap. If this has been filled and painted, check VERY carefully for rust.

The engine isn't inexpensive, but assuming it starts and runs ok, a compression and leakdown test will tell you pretty much what you need to know. Expect some minor oil leaks underneath - where the engine and box meet up is a favorite.

The electrics can be a pita. DPOs LOVE electrics. Especially check to make sure the reverse lights are working - if not tracing and fixing will give you fits - the switch is a bugger to get to without taking stuff apart.

Just like with the MG, everything is available, so parts aren't an issue. The only other thing I'd say is that if you like it and you have trouble fitting (I'm 6'2 and 245lbs) a smaller than stock wheel does wonders for the legroom...

You didn't say what year and whether it's an o/d or not. If it is o/d then they changed over in 73. The earlier ones are a bit harder to break, but both are a good thing to have (like arguably adding $1500+ to the value of the car). They are expensive to rebuild though, so make sure it works if it is there, and if it doesn't price accordingly.

If you come up with a year, I'm sure you can get some more specialised advice.
 
The car is a '76, there are gaps between the rear wings and the deck lid. Any re-painting seems to have been localised, the paint on most of the panels seems to be original. I did not notice whether it's an O/D model or not, as I honestly didn't know what to look for. Is the switch on a lever at the back of the direction indicator?
 
BobSands said:
Seems like Black is a pretty rare color, if it's original. Wasn't it special order only?
Click to expand...

As best I know, black was never an original Triumph color....
 
mrv8q said:
As best I know, black was never an original Triumph color....
Click to expand...

Maybe not as a TR6, but I know that the TR3B came in black, and think other 3's did also...
I am sure that others know more about this than me.
 
Correct, Dave, should have specified the TR6 as not offered in black. I always look at Don Elliott's black '3 w/ envy!
 
Disagree. I had a 74 and a 75 1/2 both factory black. One in California and one in Hawaii. May still have some literature from the latter, I'll have to dig up what I've got to research the paint codes.
 
As for black, if the commission number plate shows code #11 for paint, it was originally black. It was NOT normally offered, at least in the US, after the late 1960s but could be special ordered (as I'm given to understand from some very knowledgeable ex-Standard-Triumph folks).
 
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