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Ford F250

GaryBeu

Banned
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Hi Guys and Gals:

I hope someone sees this and has a suggestion.

My 1995 F250 4wd had a brake rubbing badly. The caliper is leaking fluid and pads are shot. WEhat about this rotor? Can I get away with a new caliper and pads? Thanks.

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IMO, that rotor is shot. Wafer thin on the worn side. They aren't that expensive and after all, it IS kinda a good thing to have decent brakes, Gar. :wink:
 
I agree with doc.... new rotor with new pads. I've used Rock Auto; if you can wait for shipping their prices are good.
 
Ditto what Doc said. I often change rotors just as a matter of course. They are not that expensive. About $36 Dollars at Auto Zone in fact. Sometimes you can "turn" them, but if they look like they need turning, I'd just replace.
 
Thanks guys...that's what I figured. This is a 4WD truck and I "Googled" rotor replacement. BIG job so I'm not excited about it at all. Oh well...
 
Big job? Got hubs?
Just need the right tools.
Pull the caliper off (crack the hose first...and I'd do hoses too), spin it off, thread the new one on so it doesn't leak, tie it up with wire outta the way.
Hubs/caps off, I think there's a c-clip on the axle, yours should have a 4-slot nut, use the proper tool, remove, pull the lock plate, pull the second nut?

Been a while since I did one, if you get it hub and all, easy from here. If not, use a brass hammer on the end of the studs, hit that with another to knock the studs out (I don't think they're swaged), sand the back face of the hub clean, lay the hub face down, lay the rotor on it, drive the studs in, secure them TIGHTLY with the lug nuts on backwards (with washers) and have them surfaced/turned/trued.

I'd have to look it up, but it wasn't a big deal.

Dave
 
Wow, what a difference hubs make. the F-150 uses a much lighter setup. Change the rotors in 20 minutes.

If it makes you feel better the fuel pump on my F-150 died today. So I'll be spending tomorrow putting that in. The fun part is I have to drop a nearly full tank. :smile:
 
Jody...doesn't sound like a lot of fun :smile:
 
Thanks Jay...This really helps me understand what to do !!
 
I think that link is exactly what I told you to do, except the 95 has a locking clip, I think, you pull out.
I would use the right tools, but, hey, that's me.
 
I'm going to town today to buy the spindle nut socket that I need. The right tool ALWAYS makes the job easier and better.
 
The way the rotor is worn indicates a dragging caliper. Check the rubber hose and replace caliper, rotor and pads. You are in it this far do it all and make it right. If other side is scored, might as well do all and elimate all noise and rework.
 
Larry...That's my plan. As soon as I 'get to it"... :smile:
 
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