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For Ray and Drew

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Hap Waldrop

Hap Waldrop

Yoda
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Hey guys, something to wet your appetite with, it won't be long now /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif This one is headed for TN, he originally just wanted a stock rebuild, because he felt that's what his budget would allow, however since I only use good replacment cams, might as well get a performance cam, same money, I opted for the APT MD276 with a slot drive oil pump, and APT CF-04 lifters and went with the AE-21253 pistons which bump the compression ratio with a taller compression height. So for less than $100 more in the cost of a stock rebuild, this guy got 9.75 to compression and a hot cam, it ought to be a great little motor with added performance, these two items ( cam and the pistons) are good bang for buck performance add-ons. I went with a BMC olive green paint job, I really like this color.
 

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Oh, you may notice the absense of the core plugs in the block, they were installed right after these photos when I took the engine off the stand, I alway put them in last, after painting, they are zinc palted and I like the look of paint all the parts separately, just looks better to me, than a sprayed all over after built motor, plus you get to see all the detail of those shiney yellow zince grade 8 fastners /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
DROOL, DROOL!!! Looks superb. For this engine, which parts were rebuilt and which were new.
 
I like that color as well, it just is so right.

Really looks good. Is Ray next?
 
How high a cam? I put my old cam back, not sure of the lift but when I checked it with my calipers against stock specs, it was a bit more. Only thing some may not like is a lopey idle when cold. I like it though, esecially with that straight pipe out the rear. Mufflers are for sissies /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Very, very nice, Hap.

I've been debating color. Car will be red and the interior done in the "industrial" gray that you like so much. Most all of the engine bay will be wrapped with aluminum sheet and there will be a Ron Davis aluminum radiator. As we discussed, I'll be using SS hoses and of course, the crown jewels will be the polished rebuilt original SUs that you are doing.

While I may be the ultimate owner of the car, you certainly will have a significant investment of your time and skills. I'll value your input on engine color. Also, be thinking about some contrasting colors on suspension parts.

Ray
 
Hap said:
I alway put them in last, after painting, they are zinc palted and I like the look of paint all the parts separately, just looks better to me, than a sprayed all over after built motor, plus you get to see all the detail of those shiney yellow zince grade 8 fastners \:\)
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Amen!! I think it looks soo much more professional than a unit with the appearance it's been dipped in a can of paint. I hate seeing gaskets and fasteners with paint all over 'em. Nice work, sir.
 
The cam is the APT MD276 nitritied reground metro cam with a slot drive oil pump, it lift on the lobe .280", .350" at the valve, 280 degrees duration, it advanced to 102 center line with a adjustable timing set. The AE2153 which has a taller compression height and boost the compression to a claimed 9.75 to 1, closer to 9.5 with a uncut or skimmed head. I also used the good APT CF-04 lifter with the cam, ACL tri metal rod and main bearing, ARP ROD bolts and flywheel bolts. Payen gaskets, new water pump. Alot of stuff on this guys engine core was good (which I sold him) he saved machining money by not having to line bore the block or deck the head or block, the rods were resized, of course the block bored .040" crankshaft index ground to .010/.010, all bearing clearence set at .0015" every clearence checked and double checked, so basicly blueprinted. The head is basicly stock except multi angle valve job, and completely gone through, his rocker arm assembly was in good shape and needed nothing. This engine ended up costing this guy $3600 shipped to his area in Tennesee. This is a good average for this recipe depending on the core's shape and area being shipped to, for example this engine shipping is $204 including me properly palleting the engine, a MGB motor going to California is going to be $475.00, I charge $100 to pallet them, I build a structure that bolt to the engine and then to the pallet, so it's very sturdy mont to the pallet, then wrap the engine in shipping plastic.
 
mccalebr said:
Very, very nice, Hap.

I've been debating color. Car will be red and the interior done in the "industrial" gray that you like so much. Most all of the engine bay will be wrapped with aluminum sheet and there will be a Ron Davis aluminum radiator. As we discussed, I'll be using SS hoses and of course, the crown jewels will be the polished rebuilt original SUs that you are doing.

While I may be the ultimate owner of the car, you certainly will have a significant investment of your time and skills. I'll value your input on engine color. Also, be thinking about some contrasting colors on suspension parts.

Ray
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Ray, so I get to choose engine color, hmmmm what about this color Ray /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 

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My word, that's pretty! I really like the un-painted fasteners, looks like someone took care with the build, rather than the factory dunk it in paint look. I'll have to take my laptop out to the garage and show Tunebug. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Me, I'm going with the standard BMC green for my motor. I like the idea of a semi-sleeper looking motor. Won't be able to tell what it's got until it speeds away. Maybe just a nice ACME speed shop logo on the valve cover...
 
mccalebr said:
BTW...what are you doing on the computer? You need to be on a plane!

Ray
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7:00 am tommorow, look out Doyle Brunson here I come /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
I heard several years ago that a 1000 dollars a hole is what a rebuild costs, and that isn't a bad place to start, but things are getting more expensive. The price seems today closer to 1500 to 2000 dollars.
 
I think about 1.5 for the machine work and new Pistons, rods cam, lifters, rockers, oil pump, chain and gears, bearings, gasket set, and clutch. If you need a new crank 2K easly.

Keep in mind that the assembly is prob another 1K at least.

Nothing cheep about engines when starting from scratch.
 
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