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FLOORBOARDS......Part Deux

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In prepping to start the cutout on my old floorboards, I notice the the door-side of the boards seem to tuck underneath the inner rocker, with the rocker having a lip over the floorboard about 3/4". This overlap is all spot welded together. The floorboard itself makes a right angle down under here to become part of the underside rocker. Make sense? Anyway, there are two areas where the floorboard is actually bolted, each with 3 body bolts) to brackets beneath which are welded to the frame. This is all part of the total body support on the frame. These two support areas are actually welded to the rockers, not tack-welded (and not brazed, brazing looks like brass).
I will leave these two areas of the original floorboards intact and attached to the rockers and just overlay the new boards and bolt through both pieces of metal, welding around these areas.

My idea is to cut out the old floorboards about =/- 2" from the rockers and oversize cut the new floorboards to overlap, probably onto or even over the tack-welded area, just shy of the rockers. I want to MIG-weld this whole seam, maybe even onto the rocker lip where it is tacked. Talk about make this unrepairable in the event of the need for future body work! But strong as the dickens.

Any comments?

Oh, and I have found that my RotoZip tool came with a right-angle cutoff wheel attachment that cuts through the sheetmetal of the floorboards like butter. (Anyone want to buy a Plasma Cutter. Just kidding.)
 
I found the greatest thing for cutting out my floorboards. A nibbler! Had it for years and never used it. Cuts a path like Pac Man. Driver's side out. Tomorrow will cut the pattern with Plasma cutter, then trim to fit. Cleco down and weld sometimes after. Kinda sad to see this giant hole in my car. Kinda cool too. Will soon post pictures.
 
I knew that if we gave hime enough time, that he would soon be smiling again. Good job, Bill!

Now, back to Tinster and the amazingly cruel Crypt car....
 
Bill,
I would be inclined to leave as much of the original floor in place as you can and just cut out the rusted areas. That will be the strongest way.
 
Bugeye58 said:
Bill, is it an air operated nibbler?
Jeff
Click to expand...

Hey Jeff. No, the nibbler is one I bought at a trade show many years ago and attaches to an electric drill. Have never used it before. Works slick as can be. The only problem with the nibbler is you had better clean up those millions of little fingernail-clipping-shaped pieces it throws off. Those wicked little pointed half-circles will get into your clothing and eat you up.
 
Hey Nick. I get your point but I have already done the driver's side. I took out about 80% of the floor. Careful measurement show no sagging anywhere. Since this new pan will be properly welded in place, there should be no issues. No "glue" here for sure.

A quick question. The weld nuts that hold the aluminum center dashboard bracket in place are welded to two bracket that in turn are welded to the frame. These are independent of the floorboard (not attached) and are accessed through two holes on each side through the floor. All of mine have stripped or almost stripped threads. Either I tap the nuts and rethread with a large bolt size or consider a HeliCoil. Now, these are just everyday, small fined-thread nuts. Not a whole lot of meat in them. Welding in new ones will be a real PIA. Which makes best sense, retap or HeliCoil??
 
When you start welding you might have a friend standing by with a CO2 fire extinguisher, welding floors is a good two man job. When I did mine, most of the small flames that started could be tamped out with a welders glove, but a couple times, the person doing the welder called out for the extinguisher. CO2 leaves no mess. And the obvious, watch for gas lines.
 
Re: HeliCoil

I would tap the striped securing nuts for the center console to the next size up. My concern with the helicoil in a nut is that you would take out to much metal and end up with a weaker fastener.

Ray
 
Joe_Pinehill said:
And the obvious, watch for gas lines.
Click to expand...

Good point, Joe. The good news is I am removing the gas line before doing the welding. I will cover the brake line, for what it's worth, to prevent having to redo it. I will have the areas as clean as possible before tacking. I actually have the first one Cleco-ed down, it fits nicely.

Question: I would like to prime the underside before I weld. That way at least some paint will be in the tight spots. Would weld-through primer act as a decent primer? Will use Eastwoods Chassis Black to coat the bottom when done. Will try to seal a few seams on the bottom where I have overlap. This is where something like Waxoyl comes in handy. That, and leaking motor oil.


During all this process, I descovered my Clutch master cylinder is leaking. Bummer. Now I have to remove, rebuild, scrap, prime and paint this area as well.

These cars are such joys....
 
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