Floor removal pic

[alphatopher]

In the process of patching some rust patches on the bottom B post at the connection with the inner sill, also a small section of the inner sill where there's the hole for the seat belt anchor to pass through . The rough patch along the bottom edge of the inner wheel is completed, just needs to be trimmed, heat shrunk, and pounded to get it exact.

Does anyone have any tips on getting the new floor pan in? Do you slide it forward into the engine bay then back it up? Others have mentioned metal adheasive instead of welding. I leaning toward a combination of both adheasive and spot welding. Metal adheasive on the front edge of the floorpan near the engine compartment and on the trailing edge of the pan near the rear axles, and along the drivetrain tunnel. I would spot weld the sills as I still have the outer sill to mount. Do spot welding and metal adheasive mix when connecting three panel together?

 

[TRED]

The 3M brand glue seems to be good stuff, but it is expensive and you need a special gun to use the stuff.

 

[billspit]

Boy does that picture bring back bad memories of doing the same in my Spit. Too late now but I would have recommended doing one side at a time. I do notice that you have mounted something to keep the body from flexing though.

On my Spit I stuck the floors up from the botton and rear, into the footwell and then lowered the front into place. However, the rear of my floor pan goes under the rear bulkhead. The trick (with my floorpans anyway) was trimming the floors to fit, because they are repro parts with too much metal. A lot of the old in and out!

 

[Gblake2613]

You are not alone. I just finished replacing the driver’s side inner sill and floor board. I had basically nothing left to work with on the lower part of the B post, but I could not justify the cost of a new one so I fabricated a couple of simple brackets to weld to the original B post about 2" above the sill, behind the 1/4 panel. Even though I choose to go one side at a time, brace the doors, and weld very small portions at a time, I still had a bit of shrinkage when welding. Now my door has about a 1/16" of interference on the leading edge.

As far as putting the floor in ; I put the front inside corner in first, then rotated the outside edge down towards the new inner sill. I had to temporarily bend the overlap lip of the inside rear 1/4 panel in order to get the floor between the inner sill and the inside 1/4. Might be slightly different for a tr4. I also agree with previous post, lots of trimming. My floor actually arrived bent from shipping so I had a little extra work just to get it straight.

I choose to weld only. I am in the slow process of complete seal welding the floor in. This is very time consuming since I am trying not to weld too much in the same area at one time.

Good luck

 

[alphatopher]

Thanks for looking. I am actually doing one side at a time. Metal fabrication and welding is new to me, but I'm making progress as I go. The wheel well patch can be seen clearly...I know the welds are alittle sloppy but I'm getting good penetration and with some burr and grinding the weld is invisible. The rust isn't all to bad, but since I'm doing a total frame off, media blast, then prime, I want every single particle of rust off the car. The lower B post can be patched where needed. Since I don't have a metal shrinker/stretcher, I fabricate the entire patch piece by piece as I go then weld the entire patch onto the car. The b-post patch is only going to be a 4x2 inch section with a complex "c" curve and a lip for the sill to be welded.