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TR2/3/3A Flasher problem

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TFB

Jedi Knight
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My turn signal flasher started to act up .Sometimes normal flashing ,sometimes very rapid or stays on with no flash,then goes back to normal.This can happen all within less than 30 seconds testing.Flasher is LUSF100 repro from TRF.Are these flashers problematic?Is there a better unit available?
Any other issues to look at?
Thanks
Tom
 
Tom - anything can "go bad". But first, check the contacts on all the bulbs. Corrosion on the sockets, and the bulb tips, can cause intermittent connections. Vibration, or even heat from use, can cause the problems you describe, if the connections have any corrosion or oxidation.

I use an ignition file, and/or fine sandpaper, to scrape all those surfaces until shiny clean. That's the first thing I'd do, even before checking for loose wires.

Tom
 
Thanks Tom.Wiring is all new and I cleaned all socket contacts when installing bulbs and fixtures.Worked fine first 500 miles but obviously anything could change.Next step is probably try to dig up the old original flasher from the junk bin and try that.
Thanks
Tom
 
When I first got my TR3 I had the same problems with the repro "mechanical" flashers. Then I installed a generic solid state flasher and it has worked flawlessly. I think these can be purchased for less than $20.
 
The original flasher is "load sensitive", meaning that any change in load or supply voltage will change the flashing pattern. The idea is to give the driver a visual warning when a bulb is burned out.

Most aftermarket flashers (especially those advertised as "heavy duty") are not load-sensitive and will cover up the problem nicely. I use a Tridon EL-13 https://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EL13-Flasher/dp/B001I1QPNG plus a bracket similar to https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mounting-Bracket-BR1-for-turn-signal-flashers-U-Shaped-clamp-/131186520639 (both came from FLAPS). I had to spread the clip slightly, though, as it originally applied too much pressure and eventually cracked the plastic housing.

In my experience, a common problem area is the grounds for the rear lamp fixtures. The factory relied on the mounting screws & clips to provide the grounds, and they just don't work very well, especially if the sheet metal is freshly painted. (Paint is a good insulator, not so good as a conductor.) Adding a ground wire for all the rear fixtures made a big improvement for me.
 
TR3driver said:
The original flasher is "load sensitive", meaning that any change in load or supply voltage will change the flashing pattern. The idea is to give the driver a visual warning when a bulb is burned out.

Most aftermarket flashers (especially those advertised as "heavy duty") are not load-sensitive and will cover up the problem nicely. I use a Tridon EL-13 https://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EL13-Flasher/dp/B001I1QPNG plus a bracket similar to https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mounting-Bracket-BR1-for-turn-signal-flashers-U-Shaped-clamp-/131186520639 (both came from FLAPS). I had to spread the clip slightly, though, as it originally applied too much pressure and eventually cracked the plastic housing.

In my experience, a common problem area is the grounds for the rear lamp fixtures. The factory relied on the mounting screws & clips to provide the grounds, and they just don't work very well, especially if the sheet metal is freshly painted. (Paint is a good insulator, not so good as a conductor.) Adding a ground wire for all the rear fixtures made a big improvement for me.
Click to expand...

Thanks RedTR3 and Randall.My grounds for all the light fixtures have their own ground wires.Reason Im thinking bad flasher is the way they can go from fast ,to normal,to no flash for a few seconds then flash normal etc.Thanks for the link to the Tridon.
Is the sfb100 12v 42 watt an electronic flasher?
Thanks
Tom
 
TFB said:
Thanks RedTR3 and Randall.My grounds for all the light fixtures have their own ground wires.Reason Im thinking bad flasher is the way they can go from fast ,to normal,to no flash for a few seconds then flash normal etc.Thanks for the link to the Tridon.
Is the sfb100 12v 42 watt an electronic flasher?
Thanks
Tom
Click to expand...

I just installed the old Lucas fl5 flasher and everything seems normal.So far the problem is gone.I may just leave it in there and see how long it lasts.
Tom
 
Tom - I'm paranoid. What was the original reason you replaced that old flasher?
 
The old flasher was in the saved old harness box,a little rusty on the contacts,and since I was doing a body off I just figured a new on would be best.
I have now cleaned up the old flasher connections and it seems I should have just used this original.
Side note I wanted screw terminals if possible so ordered the screw terminal version of the repro.The screws were so small and fiddley that I removed them and used the spade part of the terminal.The original had bigger much more user friendly screws,but I had to remove them to test with my spade terminated wires.
Thanks
Tom
 
Another typical case of "new" doesn't always mean "better".
I had the same issue in about as many miles and put in an electronic flasher with a little clip to hold it in place. Those tiny screws are a pain.
 
I have also what seems to be good luck for the past five years by using a small dab of dielectric grese on EVERY metal to metal connection when I put my car back together.
Gordon
 
My mechanical flasher worked fine and connections were good. Only with the generator, at idle (i.e. at a stop light), it would only flash once every 10 seconds. Not really safe in a crowded intersection. So, I upgraded from from 550 thermal flasher to an electromechanical (digital) (not electronic) flasher. Flosser 1621003. No more fast or slow blinking (especially at idle). $10 from BPNW. Alternative part nos. include NAPA NF EL 13.

Bob
 
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