TR4/4A First startup of TR4

[Twit]

I'm reassembling a 1961 TR4 CT2292.

Previous owner left me a rebuilt block that had never been started and sat dry - but in heated dry garage. I took off the cover and dosed it in oil and tranny fluid. It turned easily so I think I'm ok.

And by block I mean just the block. So I've now built it out and today it got a battery. So once I've verified circuits its going to be time to try and fire it up.

I have not done a fire up on one of these so I'm looking for some guidance. I'm obviously going to put some proper oil in it and then I figure to:

- put in some gas and hand pump it through with the gas line off to the carbs to allow flow through. I have an in-line filter there so once I see gas I close it in. then check for leaks.
- use the solenoid to roll the motor without spark. I figure I need to leave the line to oil gauge open to bleed out the air.
- once I have oil coming out then hook up the oil gauge and look for pressure. Check oil level.
- add coolant and oil to the carbs
- roll the car some more and look for leaks
- I installed distributor so I think its right but I'll regap the points.
- add spark and see if it fires.

Last motor I did the startup was my '69 Cougar and I seem to recall adding something to allow break-in for like 500 miles then changing oil. From what I've read it seems I should be looking to put pressure on the rings to get them to seat in the TR4 but no talk of additives. So some forays around the neighbourhood are called for. Then retorque the heads after 30 minutes of run time.

Is that about right?

thanks Dave

 

[Sarastro]

You don't need to bleed air out of the oil-pressure line. Any air bubbles will compress until they reach equilibrium at the oil's pressure.

You also don't need to purge the fuel line. The gas will get to the carbs even with bubbles in the line.

Set the carbs' jet adjustments to about 2 turns down from the leanest position, and static time the distributor to about 5 degrees, as described in the owner's manual.

I wouldn't turn the engine over more than necessary until you have oil pressure. Traditionally, we crank it without the plugs in place (so it turns over faster) and get the oil pressure up. Then replace the plugs, start it, and run it for 20 min or so at 2000 RPM to seat the rings. Yes, I'd change the oil after 500 miles or so--that was the factory recommendation, I think.

If it's been sitting a long time without being turned over occasionally, the rings may have been stuck to the cylinder walls and caused some damage. No way to know until you start it and look at the exhaust color. Good luck!

 

[Hamish Racing]

You don't need to bleed air out of the oil-pressure line. Any air bubbles will compress until they reach equilibrium at the oil's pressure.

You also don't need to purge the fuel line. The gas will get to the carbs even with bubbles in the line.

Set the carbs' jet adjustments to about 2 turns down from the leanest position, and static time the distributor to about 5 degrees, as described in the owner's manual.

I wouldn't turn the engine over more than necessary until you have oil pressure. Traditionally, we crank it without the plugs in place (so it turns over faster) and get the oil pressure up. Then replace the plugs, start it, and run it for 20 min or so at 2000 RPM to seat the rings. Yes, I'd change the oil after 500 miles or so--that was the factory recommendation, I think.

If it's been sitting a long time without being turned over occasionally, the rings may have been stuck to the cylinder walls and caused some damage. No way to know until you start it and look at the exhaust color. Good luck!

This is all good advice. Getting the oil pressure up by cranking and before firing is good. You can disconnect the coil wire and use the key and watch the oil gauge that way it won’t fire up or burn out the coil- like using the solenoid button but in comfort.
The 2000 rpm for 20mins is very important more for the cam and followers than the rings. It is these that have the hardest life.
good luck.

 

[Madflyer]

I am with all the above Oil pressure is key You oil gauge may peg 100 PSI if it does not there is a brass caped plug by the fuel pump Pressure relief that may stick open. Leave Rad cap off and look for steam when thermostat opens as temp goes up to say 160 deg. plus. You may not want any water pressure until retorque head. I run up at temp three times for 15 min looking for leaks should be safe keep FIRE EX close for gas leaks. Others may have more. Madflyer

 

[Twit]

thanks for all the advise. I've read it over and over.

I am worried about gas leaks. I used 5/16 hose and it didn't seem tight enough but 1/4 just wouldn't go on. I've put clips on the hose piece under the car and I may just clip them all for the startup. And I will pick up a fire extinguisher and I'll probably pull it out into the driveway.

Still a couple weeks away I think. I diverted to put my spitfire back on the road.

I have now arranged to have the fellow that rebuilt the block (15 years ago) to come help me start it up. It was rolled periodically with some oil down the cylinders so I'm hoping its solid. It wasn't frozen when I got it.