First post

[alphatopher]

Hello all, this is my first post. I recently bought this safron colored 1971 TR6 with OD from a co-worker who lost interest. All the parts are there, but there is lots to be replaced. I'm planning on a total frame off restoration. To my surprise I only have alittle A and B post rust patches to replace, the outer sills need to be patched under the front wing, the battery panel needs to be replaced, the forward decks need total replacement, both floor pans need replacement, and a big dent in the rear valance calls for total replacement of this panel. I've been learning to weld with a Hobart 125 on junk panels.

This will be my first body off restoration. I've previously tinkered extensively with a Lancia Zagato, a BMW 2002, and a Alfa GTV.

I'm sure I will have many questions. This weekend will mark the first day of restoration. Passenger floor pan comes out tomorrow. If I successfully post a picture...I will be the guy on the right.

 

[alphatopher]

Anyone want to give a novice hints on how to resize (smaller) photos.

 

[alphatopher]

Re

one more try

 

[kindofblue]

Re: Re

Looks like you have your work cut out for you....

What did you do with the Alfa and Lancia? Beautiful cars...

 

[Alan_Myers]

Re: Re

Hi and welcome,

Yes, looks like a fun project!

MIG is definitely the easiest way to weld those panels in place. Are you using shielding gas and solid wire? Flux core wire will make strong welds but requires a lot more cleanup work afterward.

Have you picked up Roger Williams book on Restoring Triumph TR6? It walks you through all the body work, things to look out for and ways to make the process a bit easier. I suggest looking on Amazon, new or used, for the best prices on that book (eBay sellers want too much!)

Just from the list you made, the rear or front valances can often be straightened pretty easily. Unless rust has rotted them away, I'd consider trying not to replace them.

If you see rot at the bottom of A-post and B-post, look closely inside them. They rot from the inside out.

An entire rocker panel might be easier to replace than patch. The reasons the front of the rockers rot (on TR4/4A) is either because of the drain from the air vent that dumps right on top of the rocker (hidden behind the fender, but I'm not positive the same drain is used on TR6) *and/or* because the closing panel behind the rear wheel isn't properly sealed all the way from the bottom to the top of the fender.

You might already know, all the panels you listed would probably be best replaced while the body is still mounted on the frame. It makes alignment a lot easier. At the rockers, A-post and B-post you have to watch out for sagging while replacing or repairing.

Have fun!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L

 

[ObiRichKanobi]

Welcome to the forum from one of the resident wedgeheads. Looks like a fun project (depends on your definition of fun /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif)

 

[alphatopher]

Re: Re

Thanks all for saying hello.

Unfortunately, the Lancia met its end after I rear ended a VW bug. Boy, the Zagato would turn heads. The Alfa I sold to our mailman who wanted a cool car to retire with in Florida.

The Hobart welder can be run as either a MIG or TIG. I can now lay a pretty good butt weld, so patching is no problem and will save some serious cash not having to buy replacement panels. Passenger side A frame patch was a success. I have begun to fabricate the front passenger sill using 18 gauge sheet metal. Only about the first 8 inches needs to be replaced. I"m bending the sheet metal over PVC tube to get correct curvature.

I just received a battery tray replacement panel from across the pond. Very happy with quality and it will be butt and spot welding easily into place.