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TR2/3/3A First attempt at spraying with Preval on TR3

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tdskip

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Once again jumping where saner, smart people, fear to tread I decided try spraying a metallic paint on the TR3 trunk lid.

This was my first time using "real" paint that wasn't premixed and already in a rattle can, and it actually went OK for the first time. She is going to need to be professionally repainted so she is a safe canvas at this point. Since I am planning on doing to be a bare metal respray at some point I don't think I'll be doing her any harm as I learn on panels like this.

I wouldn't recommend a metallic finish for this sort of thing after doing this, but a solid color would probably be OK. Better than I would have thought actually.


GettingTR3fromAlbuq30.jpg


TR3trunkPreval.jpg
 
Real hard to atomize(if that is the correct terminology) the metal with the low preasure of a prevail can. Tried on an air dam for a silver metallic Capri. A definite 30 footer.
 
Looks Good !
tdskip said:
I wouldn't recommend a metallic finish for this sort of thing after doing this
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate a bit ? Did you just not like the color, or was it hard to spray or what ?
 
The more you do it the better you get. Not bad for the first time. I would recommend setting the panel on something to raise it up so you do not have to stoop, which will allow a more uniform application of the paint and also reduce the dust you stir up from the ground.
 
TR3driver said:
Looks Good !
tdskip said:
I wouldn't recommend a metallic finish for this sort of thing after doing this
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate a bit ? Did you just not like the color, or was it hard to spray or what ?
Click to expand...

Hi Randall - Happy New Year!

I knew the color wasn't going to be an exact match since the paint on there now was custom and I didn't have the mix/ratios. The paint guys matched it as best they could, and the new paint has more metallic fleck in it. That said, I really like it. It is pretty similar, in my eyes anyway, to a big Healey blue.

As to why I don't think I'd recommend - unless I can color sand or compound some of the blotches away I think it is going to be pretty tough to get an even metallic finish. I think that is pretty standard when using metallic paints, and I'm sure my inexperience didn't help. The Preval unit was easy to handle but it seemed sensitive to even very small changes in the angle of spraying.

With matching paint and a solid color I think you could get excellent results using a Preval unit to do touch up or repairs.

I'm going to give the paint guys a call (Senik in Orange County, highly recommended) and see if they recommend wet color sanding or using a compound and then post pictures after I've done that.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
The more you do it the better you get. Not bad for the first time. I would recommend setting the panel on something to raise it up so you do not have to stoop, which will allow a more uniform application of the paint and also reduce the dust you stir up from the ground.
Click to expand...

Good ideas Ray - thanks. And Happy New Year to you as well!

How is your project coming along?
 
td,

Not having a garage, just a make shift 8x16 'carport', I am restricted by weather. We have had a spell of very cold days which prevent me from painting or doing anything that requires paint. Now it appears the rains are finally coming so I'm mostly at an impasse with the body work until spring.

But, this year I have completed most of one side of the car's repair; rockers, rear quarter finish painted, rear fender primed, passenger floor in, and half of front and rear deck done.
(thumbnail)

I thought about building the engine this winter, but decided not. Given the amount of work still to be done, and not knowing when it will be done, why have a new engine sitting around?
 
tdskip said:
...unless I can color sand or compound some of the blotches away ...
Click to expand...

Color sanding a metallic color is likely to make it worse. The appearance depends a great deal on how the metal flake lays down. Sanding will remove the top layer and what is underneath is less likely to match. Metallics are tricky and generally you need a really good paint gun and good technique to prevent blotching or tiger striping.

Bryan
 
Thanks Bryan - it actually dried more uniformly than I expected. I'll snap a couples of pictures in the AM.

Randall - that is the system I used. Really simple to use.
 
All,
Without a stir cup, (to keep the paint mixed), it's very difficult to get a even surface. Here's how to do it without the special cup. After you lay what you think is enough paint on the panel back off about 18 inches and open up to full spray and go around in circles as you move back and forth going up and dwn the panel, moving just fast enough to get the surface wet. You can still do some sanding with 2000 grit and buff it out. If you think you have a blotch or two give that area a bit more, best done on a flat surface. Always keep the cup mixed by shaking it but be sure to have a cloth to wipe up any drips coming out of the cup or air hole, they always drip right in the middle of the panel.

Wayne
 
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