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Finally my HVDA is in !

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Randall,

You comments are valid, answer is I don't know. I think that this is where I rely on Herman's expertise as an engineer and master mechanic. So far, mine is goooood and I haven't heard of anyone with the kit that doesn't share my good experience. And everyone comments to us on Herman's amazing phone support.

If I had an OD to start with, then that's probably what I'd have now. But I had a 4-speed. And love the 5.

PK
 
TR3driver said:
Ok, Peter, I won't argue the point.

But, ask yourself this : that .100-.120" is set with the bearing pushed back as far as it goes, right ? How far do the pressure plate fingers extend as the clutch wears ? When it's more than .100-120", the clutch is going to slip until you replace the clutch (and readjust the shim pack if necessary).
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what your talking about as their is no shim pack involved..Just a lot of very precise measuring..I used the 1975 toyota celica tranny and I picked it up at the local wrecker for 125 dollars. He was glad to get rid of it.
 
So if you don't pick shims, what do you do with those careful measurements ?
 
The new McLeod t/o that HVDA uses has internal threads for adjustment around the input shaft of the gearbox.

Here's what the bearing looks like
https://store.summitracing.com/largeimage...l-1400-30_w.jpg

The t/o bearing uses a couple of inner o-rings to "press fit" over the input shaft of the gearbox and is pushed full home. These o-rings just provide a friction fit to hold the t/o assembly; it is not bolted.

To achieve the required clearance, you first take a couple of measurements: 1) Determine where the top of the pressure plate sits in respect to the backward-most edge of the engine (the mounting surface of the bellhousing), and then 2) measure the surface of the t/o in respect to the mating lip of the bellhousing (the mounting surface of the engine.) You need .100-.120" clearance between these two distances.

Since the only adjustment is the t/o bearing (already installed over the input shaft), unscrew the bearing on its internal threads until the difference between the two measurements is approx equal to the .100-.120" clearance.
 
Ah, I see. That's different than the way the earlier unit mounted; it used shim washers between the carrier and the transmission nose to set the clearance. My apologies to all; but it doesn't change my original point.

BTW, I did ask Herman about this some time ago; his response was basically to replace the clutch when it wears that far. "No one wears out clutches anyway."
 
TR3driver said:
Ah, I see. That's different than the way the earlier unit mounted; it used shim washers between the carrier and the transmission nose to set the clearance. My apologies to all; but it doesn't change my original point.

BTW, I did ask Herman about this some time ago; his response was basically to replace the clutch when it wears that far. "No one wears out clutches anyway."
Click to expand...

Well I can say one thing..I sure wish all this info was up here when I started my refit..anyone in the future is going to have a lot of good info..Thanks to everyone for there input.
 
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