Fender Beading - Trimming down to size

[Jim_Gruber]

So the UPS lady showed up with a 6' long mailing tube containing 2 new 66" long fender beads for Bugsy II. The bottom of The T that fits between hood and fender is close to 3/4" long. I need to trim the bottom of the T down to about 1/4" long so I can glue in place. Have for the most part prepped the seams by cutting a groove approx 1/4" deep and cutting out the rusted in center section of the T. Still will need some work to fit but I'm getting there. Couple of questions.

1) Others have used an angle grinder with a cutting blade or a Dremel Tool to trim the bead down. Was also considering how to set up some sort of jig on the band saw that I could push in the almost 6' long section of T and out would come a neatly trimmed fender bead. Sounds great but I think I have a whole lot less control and risk having the bandsaw twist my nice fender bead into a pretzel. Looking for advice from the group on trimming the fender bead down to size. Band Saw, Angle Grinder with a Thin Cutting Blade or Dremel Tool with a cutting blade. Angle Grinder with really thin blade has the mass and the power to quickly cut.

2) Ideas on how to securely hold the fender bead for trimming but at the same time not bend or distort it would be appreciated. Hmmm two 36" pieces of angle iron clamped together in my Workmate with T in the middle, cut off flush with angle grinder held parallel to the angle iron. More thought needed on that idea.

3) Bead appears to be stainless. Advice on painting or treating before it gets glued into the cavity between fender and hood?

4) Thinking panel adhesive as bonding agent. I think it's 3M now offering in a twin tube applicator that does not need a special gun to apply. I do have someone on this list who offered to lend me their special gun for applying the other panel adhesive product. Thanks in advance if I decide to go that way.

5) Slot will be treated with Rust Converter before bonding agent is added. Hard to get in there with cutting wheel to remove rust and old bead but not cut through the hood to fender welds. As much rust as I can reach has been cut/ground out. But stuff at the very bottom of gap cannot be reached without totally removing fenders. Any thoughts. Can't see what may be in there bit I'll assume there is more rust I cannot reach.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Thanks in advance for any help and advice form folks who have gone through this before.

 

[Bayless]

Sorry I don't have any rela advice for you Jim but I am certainly pulling for you. I would be suspect of the band saw unless you can make a serious jig of some kind to properly support the bead. I'd be concerned about the grinder too since it is big and powerful. If you have a compressor, I would suggest a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Works like a Dremel but faster and can run forever without burning up the motor.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Forgot about Die Grinder Kit as my big compressor died on me. Can't run a die grinder off of one of those $39.95 HF cheapies. OK other thoughts?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I agree on the band saw, not enough control. That's out and too complicated to build a jig. Once the T is cut, it loses a lot of it's rigidity and wants to roll up and bend so supporting is an issue to worry about.

I'm back to placing a couple of pieces of 3' 2x2 or maybe 1 2x2 and a 1 1x1 degree angle irons back to back in my Workmate and leaving about 3/8" exposed of the T sitting proud of the angle iron. The length of the angle iron will provide support while I am cutting, and the face of the angle iron will provide a guide for the Angle Grinder with a Cut Off Blade/ or Die Grinder if I go that route. I may be able to lay the cutoff wheel parallel to the piece of angle iron and use that as a cutting guide. Start at one end, cut 2 1/2', stop, reposition Fender Bead and properly support the cut piece so it does not bend, start cutting again. A piece of 3/8" material could be used under the T to initially align for height and then removed before cutting. Once bottom of T is removed I can then fit fender bead to the bonnet trimming as needed if slots already cut to remove old beading aren't deep enough or bottom of T remaining can be trimmed as needed to fit. Hmmm more thinking needed but putting Fender Bead in some sort of fixture to support it and at the same time ensure a consistent cut on the length of the T. Much easier than trying to do it all freehand. And safer for my body parts and extremities.

 

[bug_sixty]

The Daaa factor here is why did they make it 1/2" longer than you say you need??

 

[apbos]

Jim
I like the idea to support the t piece. Why not just grind it down to the correct height. On the section we replaced, we left some areas long and drilled a spot weld holles though everything to give some additional fixing points while the glue dried. Use the slow drying glue.
Paul

 

[Jim_Gruber]

The Fender Beading assumes you are going to weld in place. I prefer not to separate the fender and hood. So I've cut out the old bead about 1/4 down and will use slow drying panel seam sealer type 2 part epoxy to glue the new fender bead in place.

I may consider leaving some of the bead long, drilling holes and spot welding. That part of the final fitment of the piece. I think I can grind it down to the correct height using the angle iron method. Seems much more precise and controlled than simply freehanding it. Right now the beading is pretty stout but a Step By Step on MG Experience Forum says once T gets cut down it gets real floppy. Biggest issue when gluing is that it wants to roll up on you. Lots of weight, old books, anything that you can balance on there to keep things flat is needed. On bottom of valence seam where new front of bonnet was grafted on, got some major spot welds up there that I'll need to work around and likely will do some trimming and spot welding after doing some patching. Some pinholes there that may get treated with rust converter as metal is really thin and I do not believe I can get clean enough, limited access from the backside, to weld in new metal. Will fill with fierglass from behind, and then use Eastwood Metal2Metal to close up from the front. Will try to get to clean metal by drilling holes larger before I treat and glass from behind. Now if only I'd been quicker in looking at messages that $500 bonnet in TN or GA Rut posted about would already be mine. Instead I'll keep the funds in the account for the 5 speed adapter kit for now.

 

[apbos]

Jim
Forgot one thing. We brazed down the ends of the beading. Just one other point of fixation, so the glue can set up.
paul

 

[David_Doan]

Forgot about Die Grinder Kit as my big compressor died on me. Can't run a die grinder off of one of those $39.95 HF cheapies. OK other thoughts?

Harbor freight sells an electric cut off tool (electric die grinder dedicated to a cutoff wheel) for about $25

https://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-3-high-speed-cut-off-tool-68523.html

OR

an electric die grinder for about $50

https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-die-grinder-with-long-shaft-44141.html

both would be minus 20-25% with coupon. i've not bought one, but they're on my list, nice to not have to listen to the compressor run continuously.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Tks
I'm guessing glue and brazing don't mix. In the back not an issue but might be tough around the turn signal. Will need to figure that one out.

 

[David_Doan]

The Fender Beading assumes you are going to weld in place. I prefer not to separate the fender and hood. So I've cut out the old bead about 1/4 down and will use slow drying panel seam sealer type 2 part epoxy to glue the new fender bead in place.

I may consider leaving some of the bead long, drilling holes and spot welding. That part of the final fitment of the piece. I think I can grind it down to the correct height using the angle iron method. Seems much more precise and controlled than simply freehanding it. Right now the beading is pretty stout but a Step By Step on MG Experience Forum says once T gets cut down it gets real floppy. Biggest issue when gluing is that it wants to roll up on you. Lots of weight, old books, anything that you can balance on there to keep things flat is needed. On bottom of valence seam where new front of bonnet was grafted on, got some major spot welds up there that I'll need to work around and likely will do some trimming and spot welding after doing some patching. Some pinholes there that may get treated with rust converter as metal is really thin and I do not believe I can get clean enough, limited access from the backside, to weld in new metal. Will fill with fierglass from behind, and then use Eastwood Metal2Metal to close up from the front. Will try to get to clean metal by drilling holes larger before I treat and glass from behind. Now if only I'd been quicker in looking at messages that $500 bonnet in TN or GA Rut posted about would already be mine. Instead I'll keep the funds in the account for the 5 speed adapter kit for now.

i had to "glue" one area of my beading down... duck tape worked great to hold it while the glue set.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

David, The Electric Cutoff Tool just may be the ticket and HF in Dayton is < a mile from my office .I just may need to go visit over there tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. Hey if I end up with a short piece of fender bead left over do you need it to replace the piece you made out of bondo? Let me know and I'll save.

 

[David_Doan]

David, The Electric Cutoff Tool just may be the ticket and HF in Dayton is < a mile from my office .I just may need to go visit over there tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. Hey if I end up with a short piece of fender bead left over do you need it to replace the piece you made out of bondo? Let me know and I'll save.

I short piece of beading would be great. Mine is fixed with bondo for now, not sure what will happen if the bonnet gets dropped or closed hard.

Here's a HF link that always has a 20% coupon. sometimes if you try hard you can goggle up a 25%, but the 20 is always there: https://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I'll be fitting out the fender bead shortly. I'll same you whatever I have left over.

Thanks for the Super Saver Coupon. BTW the Cut Off Tool now on sale for only $19.95 at HF.