Zackb911 said:
Problems:
1. Brakes are weak, firm pedal feel but little braking power.
2. E-Brake doesn't hold well
The brakes should feel good.
The E-brake should hold very well, so that's a place to start. Check the adjusters on the rear drums. That not only affects the E-brake, but the hydraulic brakes on the rear. If the brake adjusters are where they should be but the E-brake is still weak, check the cables for stretching/slack/incorrect assembly, etc.
You'll basically be doing a complete brake inspection. Check the brake pads front & rear for good depth, the discs & drums for good thickness, look for leaks. If the car has been sitting up, the disc & drum surfaces may have rusted & will slowly get better if not cleaned up. Also, old brake fluid feels mushy, so if it looks like even no cylinders need to be rebuilt, the brake fluid should be flushed & replaced.
I can't remember if the GT6+ has a brake PDWA, but if so, check that it works (short the wires leading to the switch on the PDWA to see if the dash light comes on. If it doesn't, fix that electrical problem so you can read the state of the PDWA.
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6. Idle is high and a tad rough, I cant get it to idle well below 1200rpm (Going to looking into timing & the carbs will need "real" tuning)
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Also check for vacuum leaks. Check all the vacuum lines from the carbs to the distributor, etc. After you get everything else checked & sorted out best as possible, bear in mind that in its 30 or so years the car may have picked up a performance cam that won't idle well down around 850-900. With the leaking, etc. that you mentioned, it sounds more likely that the issues will center around the carbs. Check the plugs for running rich, etc. Even if the carbs were rebuilt by a specialist, the previous owner may have futzed with the mixture, the bleed screw (CDSE's, right?), bozoed the termostatic valve, the choke mechanism may be sticking, etc.
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9. Some heater lines not hooked up,
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I'd go after those early. One line goes through the intake manifold to warm the mixture, & will affect idle. Also you'll find out if the heater core is leaking or something.
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no horn, no radio,
Do yourself a favor, & make a day of going under the dash with the electrics. Take the driver's seat out (good time to look at the condition of the seat sliders & lube them, put them back in with stainless screws, use the bench grinder to make a point on them like the original screws). The rat's nest of wiring behind & under the dash is actually typical for cars of the era.
Get a package of small cable ties. Disconnect each switch/instrument one at a time & trace the wires back to the harness, straighten the wires, & cable tie them together every few inches from the harness to the termination. This will group the wires to the headlight switch separately, wires to the windshield washer switch separately, the wires to the fuel gauge separately, etc., & will make troubleshooting & maintenance MUCH easier.
11. Various rubber bushings look pretty dead, need to examine rest of suspension too.
It could easily have the original suspension rubber on it. Most importantly check the rotoflex bushings for good healthy rubber look: no cracks, hardening, etc. If those go while in operation, it's a disaster.
As for choices, many companies sell complete front & rear kits for the suspension with metal bushings, rubber, etc. An alternative is to get polyurethane bushings & the other pieces separately. Polyurethane bushes last longer & have a firmer feel. The drawback is that they may be *too* firm, & I've heard reports that some sets for the GT6 are too firm/harsh/rigid for a daily driver (even the crank 'em down Koni crowd). However, Chris Witor sells polyurethane bushes in 2 different grades of firmness, I've heard folks that have installed the less hard set are extremely pleased with them for daily driving. I'll be going with those when I do my upcoming suspension rebuild.
https://www.chriswitor.com/
When doing the suspension rebuild, the best approach really is to buy junkyard suspension parts (wishbones, hubs, radius rods, etc.), disassmble, clean them, paint them, build them up as much as possible, then just swap them onto the car. Watch for bargains on eBay, etc. Take the originals, disassemble them & put them in a couple of file boxes for the next rebuild or some road catastrophe.
The biggest hazard in these rebuilds is time burning up while problems are encountered, the car is not only undriveable, but a problem on jackstands, waiting for parts, solving problems, etc. By just swapping, you solve almost all the problems before the installation, & you can do at the slowest & laziest a side a day, & the car is not out of commission for more than a few hours.
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12. Windshield washer switch/pump isnt pumping fluid.
While you're under the dash tidying the electrics, disconnect the water lines to the pump, stick on some new tubing, & see if it will suck from a bottle of water. It may take a few pumps to get it up into the switch. If it works OK, the solution is as easy as new washer line, tees, cleaning nozzles, etc.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]13. Choke knob doesnt hold when pulled.
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I can't remember now if the GT6+ is the same as the Mk3, but on the Mk3 you pull the knob out to the desired amount of choke, then turn the knob about 1/4 turn to hold it there.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]14. Steering wheel vibrates, partially the colum but mostly seems like the adaptor hub.
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Make sure the black braces under the column are bolted up, & the radio surround piece over the transmission hump is in place & bolted to the floor & bottom of the dash.
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Questions:
1. The emmision valve that goes from the valve cover to intake manifold isnt hooked up, I have the valve but not the lines, should I re affix it?
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The problem here is that if the hole for the emission valve hose in the intake manifold isn't occupied, it's a big vacuum leak. That connection should be connected correctly, or at least blocked. It's best if it's got the emissions valve in place (don't block the hole in the valve cover, at least just but a piece of cloth over it, blowby has got to go somewhere).
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