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Fan Belt

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brdave

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I have a 1976 TR6. I have performed many procedures on many different marques over the years, but at a quick glance I am a bit stumped about changing the fan belt in my Triumph. I am sure that there is not enough clearance between the crankshaft pulley and the structural crossmember across the front of the car. Does that structural crossmember need be loosened off, or is there some other trick to the job. The voices of experience are appreciated.

dave
 
Dave, usually the belt can be wiggled enough to clear that crossmember. If not, then the engine is too close to said crossmember. It is not that tough but the engine/tranny unit needs to be loosened a bit and slid back a fraction of an inch or so, just enough to squeeze that belt through the gap. Accomplish this by supporting the engine from the pan with a hydraulic jack (heavy rags keeping the pan from getting scratched), loosening the engine mounts and the tranny mount then prying the engine rearward with a board or pole. When you have the correct spacing, tighten everything up. Remember, the engine will slide back on the splined drive shaft. These cars were made to change a fan belt on and not by dismantling the car on the side of the road.
 
Dunno for sure, but I've heard that not being able to change the belt is a symptom of sagged motor mounts.
 
TR3driver said:
Dunno for sure, but I've heard that not being able to change the belt is a symptom of sagged motor mounts.
Click to expand...

Or, it could be a symptom of sagging motor mounts.
 
On TR4s (even with new motor mounts) one typically cannot change the belt with the engine in place. On that car one backs off the nut on the drivers side motor motor mount and with a board under the oil pan jacks up the D/S of the engine. In extreme cases it might be necessary to loosen both mounts.

Some use thinner belts which will slip thru that space. Some even put on 2 belts with the second one tie-wrapped to the engine but already in place as a spare for easy road-side mounting.

Personally, I carry one of those emergency belts and also a length of nylon rope for a get-me-home repair. An advantage of the rope is that you can make a waterpump-only belt to get you home if the generator (alternator for you) siezes up.
 
Dunno if TR4s had them, but the factory used shims in the motor mounts on TR3s. Main purpose was supposedly to align the crank holes, but they also had the effect of raising the engine just enough to slide the belt in. My TR3A had a shim in each mount, and even stock belts slid through just fine (although I used a cogged belt anyway).
 
I can change the belt on my TR3 without doing anything more then bending my arm in 14 directions at once. It only takes a few tool and about as may band-aids but it can be done.

I once was able to find a thin modern belt that fit as a get me home repair (I think it was from a VW Jetta). But ever since then I have carried a spare in the boot and have never had need of it /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I guess that is the answer.
 
Adrio said:
I can change the belt on my TR3 without doing anything more then bending my arm in 14 directions at once...
Click to expand...

You may already know this, but on a TR3 turning the wheels to full lock (either direction) will cause that space to open a bit making it much easier to slip the belt thru.

No help on a TR4 but I think if you're paying attention at all it would be pretty hard for one of those big original-style belts to break unexpectedly. Usually they sort of delaminate giving some warning of failure.
 
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