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failing condensor symptoms

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Shoot, that's the way I always do it. Is there another way?
 
Sure, I hear they even have some of that new fangled electronic stuff, call 'em dwell meters or somethin'.
 
I've heard of them, do they work preaty well?
 
I got one but never use it for points, I like the big needle and use it for reading the codes on cars with the OBD1 system. Used it on my moms escort. I alwasy figured dwell was one of them GM things because you can't see the points easy and have to use that allen wrench through that little window in the distrubutor cap that is way at the back of the engine.
 
Indeed.

"A Complete Ignition in a Box" costs, what... mebbe $20 (including the matches)? I'll keep my points 'n condensor. "SmartBox" iggy for race cars, they're 'pointless' for the street ones IMO. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
regularman said:
I should make a list of my roadside emergency fixes that get you home but I should really be ashamed of.
Click to expand...

hehehe!!! you and me Kim, my friends always used to call me Mike-iver. You have to be able to improvise in a pinch!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Twice I was able to make an A series engine run on 3 cylinders enough to get home after oil problems. The tools needed are a long chisel, a leather glove or belt and a radiator clamp and tools enough to drop the oil pan and loosen the rod bearing caps. Once on a trip to the north of england, we noticed the oil light coming on and going off in this old van we were in. It just did it on occasion for 150 miles or so and then it came on and stayed on and lcoked up before we could find a safe place to pull off the highway. No money to speak of, no phone, etc. While everyone else argued, I decided to drop the oil pan. I did this once it had cooled off and I loosened all the rod caps. Then I determined which one was locked and tightened the others back. Then took the chisel and hammer and knocked the bad one loose (friction welded). Then pulled the rod and piston down as far as I could and used the chisel to chip away the aluminum on both sides of the piston to remove the rod and wrist pin (takes a while), then push the piston all the way up until the top ring snaps out up top holding it in place. Then cut the glove or belt to fit around the ruined crankshaft journal and use the radiator clamp to hold it there to keep oil pressure. Then put the oil pan back on (did I mention we found a plastic lid and a 3/8 ratchet with socket in the oil pan ???? the lid blocked the sump. Then remove the valve cover and remove the pushrods for the bad cylinder. Replace the valve cover and try to start it. We were able to make out destination and then make it back home that way. once the motor is wound up its actually pretty smooth. I also did this for a gal who just never checked her oil and it locked up. Also on a Toyota celica(had to remove tappets) and on my dads dodge dynasty when something hit the oil sender on the highway and it pumped all the oil out and locked. He drove it for over a year like that, the motor was trash but it still drove. In all these cars we eventually replaced the motors because the crank was done.
 
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