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Factory PI conversion....good or bad?
- Thread starter Yeahbaby
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swift6
Yoda
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I understand that most folks in the UK replace that Lucas pump with an appropriate Bosch pump. As the PI systems weren't really brought over here you might have to consult some of the British forums for more up to date PI info. We have a few original type PI users on this forum so they should pipe up soon. For parts you will pretty much have to go with one of the UK suppliers though. Good luck with it and keep us posted.
G
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There are a bunch of online articles that'll help you.
https://www.tr6web.com/Documents/tr6/carbtoPI.html
https://www.triumphowners.com/resources.cgi?articleID=111437&parentID=111424
https://www.triumphowners.com/resources.cgi?parentID=111424
I hope you have *all* the parts - the distributor is quite hard to get a hold of.
Good luck...
https://www.tr6web.com/Documents/tr6/carbtoPI.html
https://www.triumphowners.com/resources.cgi?articleID=111437&parentID=111424
https://www.triumphowners.com/resources.cgi?parentID=111424
I hope you have *all* the parts - the distributor is quite hard to get a hold of.
Good luck...
TR674
Jedi Warrior
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Yeababy
I'm not sure a Lucas injection system is an upgrade. More a step sideways.
Alan has installed a modern injection system which should work beautifully once setup.
The original Lucas system is very primitive and requires constant maintenance to keep it performing well (I know). The Lucas pump is a nightmare, it easily overheats on hot days. The Bosch 100psi pump is a good alternative.
But, since you already have all the conversion components, go for it. The increase in performance is well worth it for the carburetter versions.
Regards
Craig
I'm not sure a Lucas injection system is an upgrade. More a step sideways.
Alan has installed a modern injection system which should work beautifully once setup.
The original Lucas system is very primitive and requires constant maintenance to keep it performing well (I know). The Lucas pump is a nightmare, it easily overheats on hot days. The Bosch 100psi pump is a good alternative.
But, since you already have all the conversion components, go for it. The increase in performance is well worth it for the carburetter versions.
Regards
Craig
swift6
Yoda
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TR674 said:
There is more to the increased performance of the PI cars than just the PI though. As long as you also increase the compression (PI cars were around 9:1) and install a little more aggressive camshaft (nothing major but anything close to an S2 profile). Use the PI distributor if you have it, otherwise have your distributor re-curved with the proper advance curve. Finally, if its an early carb'ed car then make sure you also install a dual pipe exhaust manifold (and it would be the ideal time to install something like the "Twin Sports Exhaust System").
Doing all that along with the injection should push it into the proper 150hp arena. Otherwise it will probably run like a pig and give you quite an awful headache.
heliguy
Jedi Hopeful
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If "everything" has been re-built, then the pump should give you lots of trouble free operation. Its important to re-set the end float on the lucas pump after running it for 10 minutes or so. It will increase its life! But, as has been mentioned, there is a good Bosch kit out there to replace the Lucas pump. What year car is this going onto? The head port spacing must match the throttle bodies. I think later TR6 heads are ok.........
Google Lucas Petrol Injection, there is lots of info there that you are going to need. But as far as actual installation, its not a big deal. Your gas tank needs to be modified with another return fitting and a line run from the metering unit back to the tank. You need to run wiring to the trunk for the fuel pump. You will have to modifiy the pedal assembly to a cable type ( Spitfire ones work well)
Anyways, look at the links that have been posted on here, lots of info.
Good luck!
Mitch
PS, single or double balance pipe PI set up, and do you know who re-built your system......
Google Lucas Petrol Injection, there is lots of info there that you are going to need. But as far as actual installation, its not a big deal. Your gas tank needs to be modified with another return fitting and a line run from the metering unit back to the tank. You need to run wiring to the trunk for the fuel pump. You will have to modifiy the pedal assembly to a cable type ( Spitfire ones work well)
Anyways, look at the links that have been posted on here, lots of info.
Good luck!
Mitch
PS, single or double balance pipe PI set up, and do you know who re-built your system......
G
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Use the PI distributor if you have it, otherwise have your distributor re-curved with the proper advance curve [/QUOTE]
jooi - If you don't have the pi distributor, you need the PI distrib driveshaft at the very least.
I sold a complete setup on ebay a while back. It looked complicated, and I didn't like the rubber mounts for the intake manifold - they looked like they'd fall off if you looked at them.
jooi - If you don't have the pi distributor, you need the PI distrib driveshaft at the very least.
I sold a complete setup on ebay a while back. It looked complicated, and I didn't like the rubber mounts for the intake manifold - they looked like they'd fall off if you looked at them.
[/quote]
jooi - If you don't have the pi distributor, you need the PI distrib driveshaft at the very least.
[/quote]
Whats the difference ?
Having rebuilt my PI car (original ) I am aware of the differences in the advance curves , I have a variety of dizzys and they all fit (and work) . Do you mean the distributor pedastle which has the right angle dog drive and mount for the metering unit ? This should have been included if the sale was for a complete set. I rebuilt mine 6 years ago . It has NOT needed and adjusting , fiddling , tweaking etc since that time . If set up correctly to begin with they are very reliable .
I presume the rubber "mounts" in the intake you mention were the 6 tubes between the plenium (long air chamber) and teh 3 inlet manifolds which house the injectors ? If so they are not supporting the plenium as it has a u shaped bar bolted to its underneath and then to the engine for support.
As has been said earlier the C/R , and cam need to be matched with the fuel curve on the metering unit . This can all be done to suit the engine characteristics.
If the original poster wishes to PM me I can get you off on the right track .
jooi - If you don't have the pi distributor, you need the PI distrib driveshaft at the very least.
[/quote]
Whats the difference ?
Having rebuilt my PI car (original ) I am aware of the differences in the advance curves , I have a variety of dizzys and they all fit (and work) . Do you mean the distributor pedastle which has the right angle dog drive and mount for the metering unit ? This should have been included if the sale was for a complete set. I rebuilt mine 6 years ago . It has NOT needed and adjusting , fiddling , tweaking etc since that time . If set up correctly to begin with they are very reliable .
I presume the rubber "mounts" in the intake you mention were the 6 tubes between the plenium (long air chamber) and teh 3 inlet manifolds which house the injectors ? If so they are not supporting the plenium as it has a u shaped bar bolted to its underneath and then to the engine for support.
As has been said earlier the C/R , and cam need to be matched with the fuel curve on the metering unit . This can all be done to suit the engine characteristics.
If the original poster wishes to PM me I can get you off on the right track .
G
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Do you mean the distributor pedastle which has the right angle dog drive and mount for the metering unit ?[/QUOTE]
No, I mean what I said, the distributor driveshaft. It has a set of double gears on it - one for the camshaft drive, one for the metering unit. The carb'd cars don't have this.
If it is a complete setup it should be there, but it's easy to overlook, and tough to find (at least here). A better option, and I hope he has it, is the real distributor.
I know about the engine bracket, but I still say those rubber mounts (or pipes if you prefer) look like they are prone to detaching at will. I didn't put it on my car, so I can't say for sure, however.
No, I mean what I said, the distributor driveshaft. It has a set of double gears on it - one for the camshaft drive, one for the metering unit. The carb'd cars don't have this.
If it is a complete setup it should be there, but it's easy to overlook, and tough to find (at least here). A better option, and I hope he has it, is the real distributor.
I know about the engine bracket, but I still say those rubber mounts (or pipes if you prefer) look like they are prone to detaching at will. I didn't put it on my car, so I can't say for sure, however.
Sounds like the item that goes in the pedastle . It is a separate drive which replaces the drive used in the carb cars . The drive dog on the dizzy fits in it when the dizzy is bolted to the pedastle . It has an offset slot in it . They are available but are usually sold with the pedastle . The drive for the metering unit goes through the pedastle and this drive links in to give both dizzy & metering unit drive from the camshaft . (difficult to describe and I cant post a pic) . The distributor itself is the same casing as any other 6 , only the internals / springs etc are set up differently.
I have about 3 or 4 full sets in the garage which I can photo and email to any interested parties.
The plenium tubes will not come off without help . the 2 end ones are jubilee clipped in place . It can be moved but is a very tight fit . They should be made of a very firm rubbery plastic material .
I have about 3 or 4 full sets in the garage which I can photo and email to any interested parties.
The plenium tubes will not come off without help . the 2 end ones are jubilee clipped in place . It can be moved but is a very tight fit . They should be made of a very firm rubbery plastic material .