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Factory Paint Prep

Mickey Richaud

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This probably applies to all the marques, but as I'm working on an MGB at the moment, here we go:

It's really no surprise why there's so much rust on our beloved LBC's. As I've cleaned up parts to repaint, it struck me that there's absolutely no primer underneath most of the paint - a very thin coat at best. You'd think the metal would have been better protected. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Oh, well, it is now! (What's left of it!)

Mickey
 
Mickey - are you talking about the body or just a few internal painted parts (like valve cover ...)?

If you're talking body, was yours ever stripped and repainted before?
 
I'm talking about all the little pieces - like the heat shield for the brake line that's bolted to firewall. Front suspension parts, heater box, brackets used to mount other parts, etc., etc.

The valve cover and the oil pan were coated under the paint, but the pushrod access covers weren't.

A secondary problem is when one part begins to rust, it seems to travel through the attaching bolts to other parts, even if they were treated properly. Guess that's why it's called cancer...

Mickey
 
MGB's at least, were dipped in a big primer tank prior to finishing and paint. Of course, this applies only to the main bodyshell and panels, not bolt on covers under the hood and whatnot. Suspension pieces were usually painted in chip resistant black paint. Of course, you are correct, as soon as some paint chips off somewhere, be it through a rock hitting it or something being bolted to a panel, you've got rusties.
-William
 
Wire brush the bolts and use new lock and flat washers then a touch of Penetrol after tightening will halt the progression of rust. Spray or brush on the Penetrol which is available at Home Depot or Lowes. It also works in rust proofing interior panels like sills after welding. Makes a big mess when you spray it into the cavities with a cheap garden sprayer. Don't do it on a concrete or ashphalt drive without some platic sheets down first and plenty of newspaper to absorb the dripping out the drain holes.
 
You can bet I'm treating as many of the parts as I can. It pays to do this when everything is in pieces.

It is a pain, though. I spent hours yesterday cleaning the rust on the brake/clutch pedal box and pedals. But they do look pretty good now (except for the pitting under that shiny paint).

Mickey
 
Mickey,
Seeing as rust is an issue Google POR 15 on the web and request a catalog - Not only do they have some GREAT products in the realm of stopping rust and base coats for painting which elimnate future rust, but actually list High temp engine enamel colors for Austin Healey Green and MG Maroon - What are the odds of that happening? - maybe one of the owners is a LBC Freak.

Another GREAT product available anywhere is RUSTOLEUM Primer in an aerosol can - It advertises that you can paint over "Sound Rusted Metal" - and while I can't endorse this feature I will say that when you apply this primer in thincoats to properly prepared bare metal ( I NEVER paint over rust - Losing Proposition!!!!) this spray can primer is marginally sandable ( especially if you let it set a good while and wet sand it with fine grit sandpaper )and gives you a really nice base to apply topcoats to - If an item is too rusty to sandblast and prime and be acceptable I'll hunt around until I find a replacement.

If you're not a a mind with that, you can level out pits in corroded metal before painting with JB Weld - as long as you strip the metal to REALLY bare metal and clean with some hot solvent such as Acetone before applying the JB Weld - I may be pegging myself as a Redneck, but there's nothin' that S*$t cain' fix - apply a tight coat like you would bondo , let dry overnight, sand with a sanding block and appropriate sandpaper, repeat, if necessary , to fill any small surface pits, scuff, prime, and paint - It'll be slicker than snot on linoleum buddy - .
Happy refinishing.
 
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It'll be slicker than snot on linoleum buddy

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EEWWWW! Thanks for the visual!

Mickey
 
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