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Facet Fuel Pump

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Lin

Lin

Jedi Knight
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I know that I need a low pressure pump for the 1275, but is there a recommended Facet Pump model number? Car is negative ground. Thanks.
Lin
 
One option that I used is a Facet Posi-Flo FEP 04SV, 4 psi max. pressure. It actually works for positive or negative ground. I've found it to be very quiet. If I recall it only draws 1.5 amps.

Michael
 
Don't know about pos ground but the Carter P4070 is a great pump. Best I've seen.
 
kellysguy said:
Don't know about pos ground but the Carter P4070 is a great pump. Best I've seen.
Click to expand...

Ditto on that, love mine, no problems at all.....
 
I decided to go with the Facet Gold Flow fuel pump; it pumps half the GPH as the Carter. I was looking for the marathon runner not a sprinter. It only pumps 36 GPH which is plenty of fuel for the A type engines and on top of it all you can rebuild it.
 
I have tried a couple of different pumps over the years in various cars.

For SUs the most important thing in making your selection is output pressure. If you select a pump that delivers more than 4 PSI you are likely to need a pressure regulator to prevent fuel overflow and flooding. Virtually any pump you select will provide more than enough flow for a street engine.

The traditional Facet is the "cube" type. You can select the one you want from the list in the PDF linked below. I currently have a cube pump on our GT6.

https://www.facet-purolator.com/Facet_%20Cube%20Fuel%20Pumps%20_%20Facet%20Purolator%20(Original).pdf

I installed a Posi-Flo pump in my Mini about a year ago. There have been no problems. I chose it simply because it was what was available locally.

Our Spitfire has the Gold-Flo pump on it. These pumps are more expensive and larger but relatively quiet. There have been no problems. I chose this pump because it was a good deal through an eBay seller.

Of the three, I like the Gold-Flow the best. Unfortunately the Facet web site doesn't appear to have the comprehensive model list PDFs for the Gold-Flo and Posi-Flo pumps like the document for the cube pumps I linked above. If you pursue those pumps, be sure to check the output pressure spec before buying.

I helped install the Carter pump on a TR6 Chump Car. It is a nice pump as others have stated. However, it is higher pressure and we did fit a Holley fuel pressure regulator before the carbs to prevent flooding. This is not a problem but it is an additional expense.
 
Iā€™m with you Doug about the pressure, I didnā€™t mention that, but very important if youā€™re running SUā€™s because they are very sensitive on pressure. SUā€™s float needles canā€™t handle much above three PSI. The SU pump is a safe way to go if youā€™re running US carburetors, SU pumps are pressure sensitive and cut off and on when the pressure is satisfied.

Iā€™m not running the SUā€™s but if I do decide to I went ahead an installed a King filter/ pressure regulator to keep the pressure nice and consistent.
 
BlueMax said:
I decided to go with the Facet Gold Flow fuel pump, you can rebuild it.
Click to expand...

Buy a Carter and you won't have to. :wink: I've sold fuel pumps for years and IMHO, Carter is the best pump made. Carter is only 4 psi also. For me it was a no brainer, I could get the Carter for the same price as a cheapy Mr Gasket POS.

(IIRC, I paid ~$45-55 for it brand new.)
 
Wondering if a higher pressure pump with a regulator right before the carb's might solve a fuel vaporizing problem in the fuel lines. IE vapor lock. I can see the vapor bubbles forming in the clear fuel filter before the carb. Insulating the fuel line has'nt cured the problem.

Not trying to hijact the thread, just redirect a bit!

Anyone with experience????

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
Wondering if a higher pressure pump with a regulator right before the carb's might solve a fuel vaporizing problem in the fuel lines. IE vapor lock.
Click to expand...

To solve that problem you need to mount the pump at the rear of the car away from heat and as low as possible. Mounted like that the pump can draw cool fuel out of the tank and pump it to the carbs without the formation of bubbles on its suction side. If you mount the pump in the engine bay where it is exposed to heat this is more of a problem.
 
dklawson said:
nomad said:
Wondering if a higher pressure pump with a regulator right before the carb's might solve a fuel vaporizing problem in the fuel lines. IE vapor lock.
Click to expand...

To solve that problem you need to mount the pump at the rear of the car away from heat and as low as possible. Mounted like that the pump can draw cool fuel out of the tank and pump it to the carbs without the formation of bubbles on its suction side. If you mount the pump in the engine bay where it is exposed to heat this is more of a problem.
Click to expand...

X2,, PO mounted mine that way and I always had vapor lock problems. That's why I went w/ the Carter in back. I figured, even if I still had some vapor issues, 72 GPH will fill that void REAL quick.
 
No, I met pump in the back and regulator right before the carb. I'm great at confusing folks! Fuel line runs the normal route but my Datsun engined Midget has vapor lock problems and the fuel appears to be boiling in the fuel line. Runs close to coolant feedback to the engine but I don't think that would be hot enough. I guess just try some more shielding but I was wondering if higher pressure in the line would help.

Kurt.
 
Those cheapy regs suck. Yeah, more pressure helps but floods carbs if too high. I went the higher volume route and it works well. It pushes vapors right out the bowl vent before anything can happen.
 
If you already have the pump at the back and you are seeing bubbling in the fuel line/filter just before the carbs I would re-route the fuel line away from all heat sources all the way from the back to the front. You should not need a higher pressure pump and regulator to correct this. However, there is nothing wrong with using the higher pressure pump and regulator together for your SUs if you want to. As Kellysguy said, the cheap (pancake/round body) regulators have problems. The slightly more expensive Holley regulators have a better reputation.
 
I have used the Facet low flow pump for some time with no problem, mount it where the origional was in the rear axel well. I think that I am right in saying that the pump does not know positive from negative. I am still positive ground.

Mark
 
We had one hooked up backwards on the run to Wisconsin last summer-
It lasted about 7 driving hours and then died and took the wire from the ignition switch with it.
It is better to verify the polarity and hook it up frontwards
BillM
 
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