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Daniel Kaminsky
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Does anyone know where to buy a good looking extra brake light which adheres to the trunk lid with a magnet? And is easy to wire in? Thanks.
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extra stop/brake light
- Thread starter Daniel Kaminsky
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Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Can't help you with the magnet-mounted light (I used a combined license plate light/3rd brake light billet plate frame) but can offer a suggestion, depending on the model of your Healey.
To simplify the wiring__without the use of diodes__on the early cars with combined turn-signal/brake lights, I added a second hydraulic switch at the rear axle union. By swapping out the 3-way block with a 4-way, adding the switch and grabbing the 12V+ wire that feeds the fuel pump, the only real wiring involved was a single conductor from the new switch to the bulb assembly.
If you're car is a BJ8 P-II, then disregard.
To simplify the wiring__without the use of diodes__on the early cars with combined turn-signal/brake lights, I added a second hydraulic switch at the rear axle union. By swapping out the 3-way block with a 4-way, adding the switch and grabbing the 12V+ wire that feeds the fuel pump, the only real wiring involved was a single conductor from the new switch to the bulb assembly.
If you're car is a BJ8 P-II, then disregard.
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Here is a link to a BCF thread that may have some useful info:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...-3rd-brake-light-again!&highlight=brake+light
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...-3rd-brake-light-again!&highlight=brake+light
Healey Nut
Luke Skywalker
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Fabricate a bracket that fits to the rail around the back of the cockpit , you need to get the light up high . Having it on the licence plate below the bumper is next to useless with all the jacked up red neck pick up trucks and all the sleepy SUV drivers on their phones .
Go to any automotive /truck/trailer store and you will find a selection of additional strip LED lights that can be added and wired in easily to operate of the brake lights or do like Randy suggests and add the extra pressure switch to make wiring even easier .
Go to any automotive /truck/trailer store and you will find a selection of additional strip LED lights that can be added and wired in easily to operate of the brake lights or do like Randy suggests and add the extra pressure switch to make wiring even easier .
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Thanks, I've always taken pride in being next to useless...
... just one thing, there's no bumper__living dangerously!
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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OT, but on several occasions I've been flagged-down by frantic drivers claiming my brake lights weren't working (they work). I think most 'modern' drivers just aren't used to someone coasting and/or engine braking to slow for a stoplight; it seems most people like to punch it off the line, then slam on the brakes at the last second at the stop light one block ahead. Maybe that's why I get 150K+ miles on a set of pads.
Third/middle brake lights are fine, but of no use if the idiot behind you is texting or playing Candy Crush when the light turns red ahead.
Third/middle brake lights are fine, but of no use if the idiot behind you is texting or playing Candy Crush when the light turns red ahead.
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My wife drove behind me up to the Rendezvous in Bend and complained that I didn't use my turn signals during the day (I did). Healey tail/brake lights really aren't that bright during the day:
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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I actually hadn't even hit the brakes, I just engine-braked, coasted and slowed until the light turned green. It seems idiots expect everybody else to ride their brakes like they do.
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Sorry, not really Healey related. I bought a Chevy Bolt a a month ago. One of the things it does is allow you to drive in "low" where the only difference from drive is that you get regenerative braking that is a significantly heavier when you ease up on the accelerator. Slows you down much faster. What is a bit weird is that it also turns on your brake lights when it does this. It makes sense because you really slow down fairly quickly and you can even use a paddle on the steering wheel to further increase your regen and slow down to the point where they call it one pedal driving. I can drive all over town and never use the brakes. So the brake lights come on often when you never touch the brake pedal. It is like living in different worlds driving the Healey and this thing. The 3rd brake light I have on the BN2 does make me much more comfortable although the monster trucks will always scare me.
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I did see this solution at Monterey yesterday, a magnetic towing light on the trunk lid:
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Bob said: "...on several occasions I've been flagged-down by frantic drivers claiming my brake lights weren't working (they work)."
The failure mode of the hydraulically activated brake switch is gradual--that is, as time goes on it takes more and more pressure for the switch to close and provide a circuit to the brake elements. So, when you stand on the brakes to see if they are working they will give you a positive whereas under normal braking with less than panic-stop pedal pressure they may not.
In Vintage racing all cars--except for Formula cars--must have working brake lights. Whenever a car goes through pre-race tech inspection we are asked to demonstrate to the inspector that the brake lights work and it is safe to state that no car gets to the grid without them, yet it is very common to see cars whose brake lights are not working on the track, this because while at tech the driver stood on the pedal he naturally modulates his braking on the track. On numerous occasions I have told other racers that their brake lights were not working and almost always they will test them by stomping hard on the pedal and telling me I am wrong.
Installing a hydraulic switch is sometimes a real PITA since the hard lines are tied down in place and difficult if not impossible to cut, reflare, etc. without having to plumb new lines. I have gone over to switches built into a banjo fitting that bolt onto the existing brake cylinder and only require a longer bolt and perhaps new crush washers, etc. and they would take but five minutes to replace. Get them at Pegasus:
https://www.google.com/search?clien...0i46k1j0i22i30k1j33i160k1j33i21k1.FRDaAdLaiqE
The failure mode of the hydraulically activated brake switch is gradual--that is, as time goes on it takes more and more pressure for the switch to close and provide a circuit to the brake elements. So, when you stand on the brakes to see if they are working they will give you a positive whereas under normal braking with less than panic-stop pedal pressure they may not.
In Vintage racing all cars--except for Formula cars--must have working brake lights. Whenever a car goes through pre-race tech inspection we are asked to demonstrate to the inspector that the brake lights work and it is safe to state that no car gets to the grid without them, yet it is very common to see cars whose brake lights are not working on the track, this because while at tech the driver stood on the pedal he naturally modulates his braking on the track. On numerous occasions I have told other racers that their brake lights were not working and almost always they will test them by stomping hard on the pedal and telling me I am wrong.
Installing a hydraulic switch is sometimes a real PITA since the hard lines are tied down in place and difficult if not impossible to cut, reflare, etc. without having to plumb new lines. I have gone over to switches built into a banjo fitting that bolt onto the existing brake cylinder and only require a longer bolt and perhaps new crush washers, etc. and they would take but five minutes to replace. Get them at Pegasus:
https://www.google.com/search?clien...0i46k1j0i22i30k1j33i160k1j33i21k1.FRDaAdLaiqE
Hi Daniel,
Not sure if you've solved your problem but I have found that the external third brake light from a GMC Jimmy/Chevy Blazer works well on our Healeys. The light has a slight contour which marginally matches the Healey shroud/boot lid. My cars (BN1, BN6) are both positive ground so I had to re-work the LEDs and resistors but I was able to split the circuit board and have turn signals as well. I understand that there is no issue for negative ground cars. All of this was quite easily done, even for a hobbyist like myself and the best part of this is that you can wire the light directly into the bullitt connectors for the tail lights in the boot using a 4 wire trailer harness that can be disconnected/re-connected and the light removed in seconds for car shows if wanted. If you're interested I may be able (never done it before but I can learn!) to add a photo or two to this forum.
Good luck with your search.
Dave
Not sure if you've solved your problem but I have found that the external third brake light from a GMC Jimmy/Chevy Blazer works well on our Healeys. The light has a slight contour which marginally matches the Healey shroud/boot lid. My cars (BN1, BN6) are both positive ground so I had to re-work the LEDs and resistors but I was able to split the circuit board and have turn signals as well. I understand that there is no issue for negative ground cars. All of this was quite easily done, even for a hobbyist like myself and the best part of this is that you can wire the light directly into the bullitt connectors for the tail lights in the boot using a 4 wire trailer harness that can be disconnected/re-connected and the light removed in seconds for car shows if wanted. If you're interested I may be able (never done it before but I can learn!) to add a photo or two to this forum.
Good luck with your search.
Dave
OP
Daniel Kaminsky
Freshman Member
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Dave,
Your solution sounds good. Perhaps you could get a photo on the Forum? I am in hopes of being able to attach with a magnet so as to not drilling holes. Saw one like that with a piece of rubber underneath to protect the paint, but the owner could not recall where he got it.
Dan
Your solution sounds good. Perhaps you could get a photo on the Forum? I am in hopes of being able to attach with a magnet so as to not drilling holes. Saw one like that with a piece of rubber underneath to protect the paint, but the owner could not recall where he got it.
Dan
I followed others and installed a flexible LED light bar as a third brake light; however it's also wired for LT and RT flasher function. Mounted with industrial hold velcro directly to convertible top / tonneau cover, it's high and bright enough to get attention of motorist. Wiring is just routed though the boot lid lip, so a small section is exposed. But that's fine since it's also easy to remove and tuck away in the boot if necessary.
The LED light bar is very discreet but when the LEDs activate during braking it is very visible and motorist from behind respond. GONZO
The LED light bar is very discreet but when the LEDs activate during braking it is very visible and motorist from behind respond. GONZO
![IMG_2830[1].jpg](https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/data/attachments/38/38283-4c468b89fb0ce09f088bb6d3740fbc17.jpg "IMG_2830[1].jpg")
![IMG_2826[1].jpg](https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/data/attachments/38/38281-b8791b14716538475f2fb7c2e7c5127b.jpg "IMG_2826[1].jpg")
![IMG_2829[1].jpg](https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/data/attachments/38/38282-1527a33ec8afb584ec8bbf3e250a42d2.jpg "IMG_2829[1].jpg")
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Daniel Kaminsky
Freshman Member
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Dave,
I very much like your solution, and its good-looking! Wonder if you used more/stronger magnets, if there would be a need for the brackets? Guess its too much to ask for a photo of the wiring set up??? Thanks.
Dan
I very much like your solution, and its good-looking! Wonder if you used more/stronger magnets, if there would be a need for the brackets? Guess its too much to ask for a photo of the wiring set up??? Thanks.
Dan
Hi Dan,Sorry for the delay and the lack of wiring pics (these pictures are upside-down on my screen by the way). I've not tried stronger magnets so I hesitate to comment but I think it could work. My wiring is basic trailer wiring that tucks into the tool tray behind the battery master switch and then runs down the bulkhead and under the Armorcord floor material. The electrical connection is by original bullet connector into the original harness on the driver's side (left hand drive car) which is again tucked under the Armorcord in the small "storage pocket". This is quick and easy and allows you to remove the wiring quickly for shows and takes advantage of the brake and turn signals. I'm going to create another one some day that allows the parking lights as well. That one is still in my head but I think it'll work with a resistor or two in the parking light circuit. If by chance you go that route let me know how it works.
Good Luck,
Dave
twas_brillig
Jedi Knight
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"the external third brake light from a GMC Jimmy/Chevy Blazer" Dave - what model years do you suggest?
All: Dave's set up and the velcro-to-the-tonneau-etc. really appeal to me, particularly when combined with an additional direct pressure switch per Randy et al. We have a Manx clone dune buggy that I converted to an electrical brake switch as it would be fractionally quicker, but unfortunately added another failure point (the switch wasn't reliable). We've added two high mount LED bars and connected them to the hydraulic pressure switch so we now have two independent systems - much like Randy et al. Thanks everyone! I'll be doing one of these approaches when the car comes out of storage! Doug
All: Dave's set up and the velcro-to-the-tonneau-etc. really appeal to me, particularly when combined with an additional direct pressure switch per Randy et al. We have a Manx clone dune buggy that I converted to an electrical brake switch as it would be fractionally quicker, but unfortunately added another failure point (the switch wasn't reliable). We've added two high mount LED bars and connected them to the hydraulic pressure switch so we now have two independent systems - much like Randy et al. Thanks everyone! I'll be doing one of these approaches when the car comes out of storage! Doug