• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

exhaust wrapping

Share this page

Jim_Newman

Jim_Newman

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Forgive me if this topic has been covered before.
I have finally gone through the process of heat/sound insulating the entire interior of my BN7. It's better but it's still hot to drive - especially on hot days. But mainly in the footwell. Has anyone had any success with heat insulating wrapping of the exhaust manifold and/or pipes/muffler? Does anyone recommend this additional fix? Has anyone found a way to better shield the driver footwell/floor area from those high temps?
As always, thanks for the advice.
 
Slightly different application but I have used a sprayed coating on a small race car headers with good success. It looks and feels like 100-grit garnet paper (dark grey/black) and is done over here by HPC HPC website

We then header-tape wrapped the pipes as well because in the car they are only an inch from the drivers back. An unpredicted side effect was the aluminium muffler melted as all the heat went out of the tail pipe.

My limited experience with header wrap on road cars has always been that it comes apart very quickly anywhere that is subject to abrasion. Only need one tear and the whole lot unwinds and trails out under the car. Good on headers in the engine bay though.

Andy. (no connection to HPC)
 
I wrapped the downpipes on my BJ8 and it's worked well. Whether or not the cockpit is cooler or you get more power is subjective--without a dyno anyway--but it sure seems like the exhaust gasses are hotter at the tailpipe, which to me means the exhaust system is dissipating less heat elsewhere.

Yes, it can be cut or abraded easily, but I've nicked mine and so far no problem with unwrapping. Some say the wrap will cause the steel to erode quickly, but I've been checking mine and so far no signs of erosion or corrosion after a couple years and 10K miles or so.

Ceramic coating of the manifolds and downpipes is the recommended way to go, but you'll get some benefit from wrapping the downpipes. I used DEI wrap--available at JC Whitney and most speed shops--and their high-temp, silicone coating which worked very well on wrap and pipes.
 
Hi Jim, most AH drivers use a heat insulator available at speed shops applied directly to the floor pans. Then the black tarpaper, then the carpet. Doesn't completely eliminate all heat but really does reduce the heat.
 
I've wrapped my headers because they are not as thick as the stock exhaust manifold. The wrap seems to be holding up ok (now that I've written that, it will probably disintagrate).

I'm sure you've seen all the advice to make sure all the openings in the firewall are sealed.

One thing that I did that I think helps is line the fresh air duct from the grill to where it enters the firewall. It keeps the fresh air from getting quite as hot on its way through the engine compartment. I put a slightly smaller duct inside the stock one and added some foam insulation in between.
 
John Turney said:
I'm sure you've seen all the advice to make sure all the openings in the firewall are sealed.

One thing that I did that I think helps is line the fresh air duct from the grill to where it enters the firewall. It keeps the fresh air from getting quite as hot on its way through the engine compartment. I put a slightly smaller duct inside the stock one and added some foam insulation in between.
Click to expand...

Yes, make sure all the holes in the firewall are plugged.

John, I like the way you addressed the warm air topic.
As a side note guys, try and keep the fresh air tube as straight as possible for the air to travel through. If it's too long and hangs, then you'll not get as much pressure of "warm" air as you'd like.
 
Back
Top