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TR2/3/3A exciting suspension mystery for tr3

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mcguijo

mcguijo

Jedi Hopeful
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OK. Have run into an issue after rebuilding my front suspesion on my TR3. After reassembling (following cleaning, bead blasting, painting, new bushings, etc), my coil springs have a slight outward curve to them. The problem, not enough clearance to reinstall the rebound rubber bracket. This is what I think may be problem: I replaced the 4 bolts (and 2 nuts) on the upper fulcrum pin. Could be I put in slightly longer bolts (I'll blame the liquor /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif ). At least, that is what I'm hoping is the problem. Otherwise, anybody have any other suggestions?
 
Hi,

I don't think the slight outward curve in the spring is an issue unless it's to the point where the spring actually rubs against the inside of the upper mounting area. This would eventually remove paint from the spring, allowing rust which can in turn cause a spring to break eventually. Seems to me most of these springs have some outward curve when fully installed and partly compressed.

The upper fulcrum mounting bolts and nuts should not interfere with the spring, though, and too long bolts can be a problem. If you are fairly sure they are contacting the spring, I'd remove it all and cut the bolts down to a proper length. To do so, with the spring removed but the upper fulcrum still bolted snugly in place, look up inside the spring mount and see if the bolts are more than a thread or two longer than the nuts. If so, mark them with a Sharpie or similar, then take them out one at a time and cut down to size.

I'm not sure if you are referring to the upper or lower rebound rubber. I suspect you mean the lower one. At Moss' web page https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29136 item #113 is the upper, #126 is the lower.

If the upper, it usually needs to be installed loosely before the shocks and bottom stop/bracket are installed, while the suspension is at full extension.

If the lower bump stop is the one you are having trouble with, This bump stop and bracket are the last items to install, after springs, shocks and everything else are all bolted back in place. First install the rubber part securely onto the bracket that will mount to the frame. Then put some weight on the suspension to lift it a little and make room to install the bracket back onto the frame with the two long, 5/16" bolts.

How you compress the suspension to install the bottom bump stop and bracket is your choice: You can just lower the car back onto the ground. Or, if the car is up on stands for example, put a jack under the tire on the side you want to install and lift. Do the latter carefully because the wheel can rotate and push the jack out from under it pretty easily. Either way you choose, you are using the car's weight to compress the suspension a little and that will give the room needed to install the lower bump/bracket.

Hope this answers your questions.

Alan
 
Aloha Mcguijo,

After looking a view of the suspension in the Moss catalog, if the fulcrum pin bolts are excessively long they could disturb the proper position of the aluminum packing piece, especially if these are the two closest to the center of the car. That might cause the springs to develop the curve you describe, but it doesn't seem to me that would lower it so much that you couldn't install the rebound rubber. On my car there is at least an inch of clearance between the top of the rubber and the spring pan. Did you reuse the coil springs or are they new? Is there the same problem on both sides of the car? Is it possible the aluminum distance piece is installed upside down or not seated in the housing on the frame? With the wheels on the ground, is there still no room for the rebound rubber?

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
[ QUOTE ]
Did you reuse the coil springs or are they new? Is there the same problem on both sides of the car? Is it possible the aluminum distance piece is installed upside down or not seated in the housing on the frame? With the wheels on the ground, is there still no room for the rebound rubber?

[/ QUOTE ] I guess a few of these scenarios are possible. I tried initially with the old springs and then bought some new ones (needed new springs anyway). If the bolts are too long it would not be by much. Both sides have the same problem. And problem still exists with wheels on the ground. Could be the AL packing piece but I don't think that it is.
 
Aloha,

Are the new springs the same length as the old ones? Replacements come in two free lengths, 9.75 and 11 inches. The longer spring is for later model TR4s. If you received and installed the longer length, perhaps that's the cause. The TR3 should use 9.75 inch spring that has 6 3/4 coils and has a fitted length of 6.75 inches plus or minus 3/32 inches. The longer spring has 5 3/4 coils.

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
I'm thinking that the inner fulcrum pin bolts come up from the bottom with the nut on top so they don't stick down and interfere with the spacer. But I could be wrong.
 
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