ethanol in gas

[tahoe healey]

Last year it was oil additives and now its gas. In the last Moss British Motoring there was an article on ethanol causing water in gas that will scare the crap out of those of us who don't drive much in winter. Gas separating in 30 to 45 days causing water in the tank if vented! Ninety days in a sealed tank. We have had oxygenated gas in California for many years and I have never had a problem (that I know of). What gives? Are they trying to sell more products? I use Sta-Bul (sp ?) in my lawn mower in winter and the snow-blower in the off snow season. I use to use it in the Healey but haven't in 4-5 years.
What, if anything are the forum guys using or why not?

 

[bighealeysource]

I read the same article and makes you want to go out and buy the products
they feature. Could be that's the purpose but I like to think that Moss
was really trying to inform some who perhaps don't put anything in their gas
tanks. I know, I'm the "glass half full" type guy. I have used Sta-Bil for several years and seems to do the trick. Like Tahoe Healey I would like to
hear what the majority of y'all out there do - use a stabilizer, use premium
versus regular, etc. My BN6 has the correct valve seats to use unleaded but
know that can be an issue for many who have not made that change.
Regards,
Mike

 

[Marvin Gruber]

All I know is the gas goes bad in 3 to 4 months. My BJ8 hasn't been cranked since early spring. I plan to just drain the the tank (it has sta-bil in it)before I crank it. The XKE really hates the gas, I got it to run with choke pulled halfway out. That gas was only a couple of months old. Don't put new gas on top of the old, you are just wasting money. Think I will put some type of drain "port" in line so I can drain the tanks easy.

Marv

 

[Johnny]

I never used anything in the past, but this year due to the extreme cold temps I put "Sta-Bil" in all my cars. It's my understanding that oil companies put additives in their gas to compensate for summer/winter conditions. I always fill the tanks with premium, adding the stabilizer and leave sit. In the past I've been able to start and run the car even in cold weather. This year I may not get a chance.

Oh, there is a difference between the "marine Sta-Bil and the auto Sta-bil". Make sure you get the "red" auto Sta-bil. Follow the instructions of 1 ounce Sta-Bil to 2 1/2 gallons fuel. It comes with an easy measure/pour container. Hope this helps.

 

[Brakin80]

I always fill the tanks with premium, adding the stabilizer and leave sit.

We do the same. Our BN7 is winterized for approx. 5 months. Never had any hiccups in the spring.

 

[Legal Bill]

I have a boat and have been living with this for several of years now. I fill the tank in the fall and add a stabilizer. I fire it up in the spring and it all works well. So do my other engines in storage. Here are my best tips:

1. Use premium gas (93 octane, if available) from a good name supplier.

2. Use a good fuel storage additive, like Sta-bil or Star-tron. One of the two uses enzymes that are supposed to break the alcohol-water bond. Some winter additives are just more alcohol. You add those, and you make matters worse.

3. If you live in a problem area and will be storing your car for months at a time, look into adding a water-fuel seperator to your system. These are very common in boats. The unit looks like a remote oil filter. You just unscrew the canister and replace it with a new one. Most guys carry spares withthem on the boats.

4. If you live in a warmer, more humid climate, then this is more of an issue. think about running your car down to the last gallon and then stabilize the fuel. Ethanol content is 10% by volume, so now you only have 1/10th of a gallon in the tank that can cause a problem. A fuel-water seperator will easily cover that, and the stabilizer should protect you well enough that a full tank of fresh gas will dilute the problem down to an insignificant volume.

I have two boat engines (2002 225 Yamaha four strokes) two car engines (65 Healey and 2002 Honda S2000) and a variety of small engines (Briggs and Honda) that all sit full of fuel for more than 4 months every year.

 

[Andy65]

I have a boat and a motorcycle both of which sit long months. You are in dangerous waters with ethanol. There are two events 1) gas going bad 2) ethanol separation. Stabil can keep gas going bad for a year or more. The gas looses it octane. Ethanol problems can happen quickly. Once a certain amount of water is in the gas, the gas components separate. Picture two layers of liquid. The separated layer will not burn - period. It also sludges up the carburetor. Depending on the water in gas to start, heating cooling cycles i.e. weather, condensation, exposed tank i.e. gas level there may be no problems for months in sunny CA or a problem in just 4 months in cold CT. Compounding the problem is that ethanol causes gas to absorb water. Once the gas reaches saturation, then you have a problem. I've had to take all 4 Goldwing carbs apart three times. If you find brownish redish gooky stuff, that's the result of ethanol.

Recommendations: use one of the new products that is both a stablilzer and prevents ethanol separation such as Startron (very good) and Stabil with ethanol protection. Consider draining the carbs. The gook gets forms in the jet holes although the Healey seems less susceptible.

Usually cleaning the carbs will take care of it but the gas has separated, you have to drain the tank.

Rubber and ethanol: Ethanol destroys certain rubber compounds commonly used pre-1990. I've not experienced anything on the Healey (yet) but have seen 0-rings and the like turn to jelly on other carbs. Report any known Healey rubber failures.

 

[glemon]

I have left cars for 4-5 months with no special treatment to the gasoline and no ill effects on starting or running characteristics many times, Sometimes I may try to start my cars on a decent day in the winter, but I don't change the gas out or anything.

Same with the lawn mower, I have heard from others with different experiences but no problems in 20 years I am not going to worry about it.

I know many people like ot add Sta-bil, maybe it works or maybe it is like the pink elephant repellant bracelet "does it work" "do you see any pink elephants around here?"

That is the flippant response, it is probably in the probably won't hurt and might help category.

Greg

 

[Bob McElwee]

I'm like glemon. All I do is put a trickle charger on the battery and put a trouble light on the manifold by the middle carb. The light seems to make it easier to start when it is cold. Normally it will get started in Feburary for the TR club Polar Bear Run. I also try to remember to start it during the January thaw warm days.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I'm like glemon. All I do is put a trickle charger on the battery and put a trouble light on the manifold by the middle carb. The light seems to make it easier to start when it is cold. Normally it will get started in Feburary for the TR club Polar Bear Run. I also try to remember to start it during the January thaw warm days.

Probably just another one of "those opinions" but I refrain from starting up a stored car (beit my Healey or the 01 M Rdstr) until I can also take it on at least a 30-minute drive.

Unless you can drive it long enough <span style="font-style: italic">at temperature</span> to boil out the moisture (condensation) inside the engine, I believe that just starting it and blipping the throttle for a few minutes does more harm (overall) than good.

The only benefit, would be to change the gasoline in the float chambers.

Just one man's opinion.

 

[Legal Bill]

I'm like glemon. All I do is put a trickle charger on the battery and put a trouble light on the manifold by the middle carb. The light seems to make it easier to start when it is cold. Normally it will get started in Feburary for the TR club Polar Bear Run. I also try to remember to start it during the January thaw warm days.

Probably just another one of "those opinions" but I refrain from starting up a stored car (beit my Healey or the 01 M Rdstr) until I can also take it on at least a 30-minute drive.

Unless you can drive it long enough <span style="font-style: italic">at temperature</span> to boil out the moisture (condensation) inside the engine, I believe that just starting it and blipping the throttle for a few minutes does more harm (overall) than good.

The only benefit, would be to change the gasoline in the float chambers.

Just one man's opinion.

Your opinon is correct,and there is more than one reason. While oil is sticky stuff, it obeys the law of gravity just like any other liquid and over time more of it drips in to the pan and less of it is on the bearings. Starting up a stored car is the moment of greatest wear on the engine. I got this information from a tribiologist who was very active in the Honda S2000 community a few years back.

 

[HEALEYJAG]

Have owned British cars since 1978. Have never done anything other than fill the tank with Sunoco 94 octane (NO ETHANOL). Never had any issues starting them in the spring!


Pete