TR2/3/3A Establishing distributor shaft end float

[Redoakboo]

Does anyone have an easier way to set up the end play, other then the way shown in the TR-2 manual? Something you can understand??

Dick

 

[TR3driver]

What's not to understand? You add a spacer, so the float goes negative and you can measure how much the housing lacks fitting where it should. Subtract the measurement from the thickness of the spacer to get the actual end float. Add shims as required to bring the float within range. The only tricky part is that you need a spacer that is flat and parallel, most hardware store washers aren't flat enough.

Or, assuming you haven't changed the bushing, just put it together with a single gasket and see if you can move the gear at all. If you can wiggle the gear, it's close enough.

 

[KVH]

Do I recall some other method, involving pushing up the oil pump shaft with a dial gauge above? I always have trouble using the manual's method because it assumes the feeler gauge is measuring a uniform space at the distributor pedestal and mine seems floppy all around. I hope I'm making sense.

 

[ed_h]

Sounds like the process is the same as for the TR6. On my 6, I was able to measure the clearance with a feeler gauge down the bore.

Ed

 

[TR3driver]

Do I recall some other method, involving pushing up the oil pump shaft with a dial gauge above? I always have trouble using the manual's method because it assumes the feeler gauge is measuring a uniform space at the distributor pedestal and mine seems floppy all around. I hope I'm making sense.

If "floppy" means it moves while you are trying to measure, then something is wrong. Either your spacer isn't flat enough, or the bushing is badly worn. It should sit down solid, especially with the nuts (lightly) tightened.

I suppose you could put a dial indicator on it, and either pull or push the gear up to see how far it moves.