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Engine - what do you guys?

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GB1

GB1

Yoda
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1275 HC engine in a 59 BE

Engine

bottom end tight rblt

very well known company doing work (***)

12G940 Head
Oversized valves (street), waisted (rim flow depending on CR)
Ported and Polished
Decked to 9.5 CR
Unleaded
Upgraded springs, retainers

Rockers
Offset bushings
Hardened shaft
Refaced pads
Heat treated rockers

Intake Manifold
Maniflow

Carbs 1/1.4
Squared off
Shaved throttle shafts
Pistons champered (included)
Bridged & Polished
Jetted, rebuilt, etc (Inc New Throttle Shafts)
Intake matched and assembled, flow tested to assembled head

Followers
Hardened

Pushrods
Isky

Cam
Kent MD 276 (new oil pump to match)

Flywheel
Stock - Lightened (new ring)

Exhaust
Manifow LCB
Muffler RC40

Air Filter
KN (whith champer edge)

Oil Pan
Scraping (WC)

Anything I am missing or might not have listed, please advise?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Anything I am missing

[/ QUOTE ]

Maybe a few verbs? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Dynamic/static balancing
 
think I hit the wrong forum, bottom end is not being done at this time, air flow restrictions, A series, help doc
 
I am pretty sure I know what you are asking but most of this is going to be over my head. Looks like you are sinking a ton of money into that 1275. Hopefully someone comes along who can help you. It would seem to me there are a few calculations in order to see how much air she should be gulping.
JC
 
Looks like you've spent alot of time in Vizards book. I'm following a different route. I bolted the Moss SC onto a stock rebuild. Now I'm going to start modifying the engine to take advantage of the forced induction. (one bit at a time).

However, following a traditional route, why not go with a single HIF44? Or a Weber? Rather than fooling with the dual SU's.
 
thanks, all,

sorry, happy Saint Patty's day!!! not a ton of money second time around round in 25 years with him,

might take another 25, hopefuly, to get here again with him.

nite
 
[ QUOTE ]
thanks, all,

sorry, happy Saint Patty's day!!! not a ton of money second time around round in 25 years with him,

might take another 25, hopefuly, to get here again with him.

nite

[/ QUOTE ]
honestly guys, this thread is incomprehensible...
 
Have a 55 year old car that can't its way in traffic? nor have have 55 year old car that can (and keep her on the road)?????
 
Maybe blow her, nor inject, throw a later model engine in?
 
Yes ARP rod bolts.
You have done far more to your 1275 than I have done to the 1500 I race (the only thing I've done is the ARP studs, a Euro-spec cam and some cleanup fo the ports).
On the 1275, I'd do a light plane of the head (to prevent blowing gaskets between #2 and #3. I'll assume you've done a new timing chain. A new oil pump would be good.
 
[ QUOTE ]
sorry Chris and all of you engineers?

[/ QUOTE ]
Did I miss something?
 
I much prefer Nial's approach: good fasteners, clean it of the usual "production" swarf and pay attention to detail, a mild cam and deck the head a bit. Balancing the internals, a new T-chain and oil pump are money well spent. It'll run just as long or longer than the first go, and smoother. This ~is~ a "street" car, right? Don't make it harder to drive than necessary, or spend a TON of dough on bits the OEM engineers already designed for the task.... That's my tuppence-worth. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

Edit: and there's not a thing wrong with twin SU's.
 
ARP hardware is *the* stuff to bolt your race motor together with.
You can find ARP hardware here (this site is pretty confusing, but they are in there):

https://www.aptfast.com

You can also find them in Summit Racing catalog and others but you have to know what to look for.
Certain ARP rod hardware for Chevys will fit.
My car actually has a set intended for Porsche...the owner sold his racer and gave them to me (ARP hardware and rods tend to be "Inch" even in "Metric" cars).
 
I wish Summit would just list size/pitch info instead of all the "kit" junk... I know,iknow, it's EASY for a V-8 Ford guy to just pick a number... but MY Fords are a *bit* different.
 
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