• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Engine Stands

Share this page

kindofblue

kindofblue

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Harbor Freight has an 1000 lb stand for $40. Sears Craftsmen sells the same weight for $100. What is the difference?

I have a feeling that when it comes to a 500 lb engine you want the best stand you can afford.
 
I've got 4 or 5 Harbor Freight stands...never had any problems with MGB, Midget, Chevy V6 or Rover V8 engines...& this past weekend they had them on sale for $29.97!
 
kindofblue said:
Harbor Freight has an 1000 lb stand for $40. Sears Craftsmen sells the same weight for $100. What is the difference?

quote]

$60 bucks
Click to expand...
 
I have several of the HF stands...work fine. I'm using two as the end components of my rotisserie in the Spridget Project; the main mod I made for that was to replace the stock wheels with 4" rubber, swivel ones...also from HF.

I would suggest the models with 4 wheels ("H" style bottom frame) rather than the 3 wheeled model ("T" style bottom frame) for stability.

Ray
 
mccalebr said:
I would suggest the models with 4 wheels ("H" style bottom frame) rather than the 3 wheeled model ("T" style bottom frame) for stability.

Ray
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
I just got one (the 3 wheeler) and I think I'm going to make an adapter plate to screw onto the engine and attach the stand to because my 1500 is just to small to fit well and balanced.
 
I have HF jackstands and engine stands. Haven't had any problems with either, except the engine stands don't work on some "pancake" engines (for example subaru EA82)without adapters. I've used them for Rovers, Mustangs, MGB's etc.
 
I have had several engine stands & many adapters over the years. Gave them all away. I may be old fashioned, but I prefer a sturdy kitchen table to work on. lot less fooling around & more flexibility on positioning the parts for access to various areas & a lot more stable. See pics.
D
 

Attachments

  • 10427.jpg
    10427.jpg
    147.5 KB · Views: 145
  • 10428.jpg
    10428.jpg
    146.6 KB · Views: 136
  • 10429.jpg
    10429.jpg
    150.7 KB · Views: 123
Dave Russell said:
I have had several engine stands & many adapters over the years. Gave them all away. I may be old fasioned, but I prefer a sturdy kitchen table to work on. lot less fooling around & more flexibility on positioning the parts for access to various areas & a lot more stable. See pics.
D
Click to expand...

Dave you're building you a whooper there aren't you buddy, a Fardon billet crank and Carrillo rods. I still perfer a engine stand though, I make side adaper for mine, so I can bolt on the back palte and clutch while on the stand. Here's a picture of my side adapter for a MGB, and A series, I also have one for a Spitfire/1500 Midget motors.
 
Pretty Engine Dave! Is there any reason other than asthetics for painting the inside? - sure looks nice

Hap - no link to your piece - I'd love to see it
 
Hap I'd love to see your 1500 adapter.
 
JP,
The inside is painted with "Glyptal". Mainly used as an electrical insulating varnish.

Some engine builders use it to seal the pores on the inside of blocks & rough cast surfaces. Removes places for contamination to stick & promotes faster drain back of the oil.

My block was originally done this way by the factory. The original was still on the insides after 50 years. The hot tank removed it so I just put it back like it was.
D
 
Dave,
It sure is pretty.
 
Dave Russell said:
JP,
The inside is painted with "Glyptal". Mainly used as an electrical insulating varnish.

Some engine builders use it to seal the pores on the inside of blocks & rough cast surfaces. Removes places for contamination to stick & promotes faster drain back of the oil.

My block was originally done this way by the factory. The original was still on the insides after 50 years. The hot tank removed it so I just put it back like it was.
D
Click to expand...
Dave - I'm getting my Midget engine back from the machine shop & am interested in doing that to it.....any tyips other than buying Glyptal & putting it on with a brush? & where can I get Glyptal?
 
I got Glyptal from Eastwood. #46001ZP, brush on, one qt. It's "Glyptal #1201 Red Enamel (Insulating Paint)". Other sources may have it also.

The metal needs to be clean. Thoroughly wash down with lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, or?
D
 
Thanks - engine will be real clean coming from machine shop but I'll wipe it down again.
 
Hap Waldrop said:
Dave you're building you a whooper there aren't you buddy, a Fardon billet crank and Carrillo rods.
Click to expand...
The stock crank is redlined at 4,800 rpm, & is known to have a destructive harmonic at 5,200 rpm. Since I wanted reliable operation to 6,000 plus rpm, Better crank, rods, & pistons were needed. The 13 pound 8 bolt steel flywheel goes with the combination. See pic.

Combined with the DWR aluminum head, header, 9.8 compression, cam, & H6 carbs it runs pretty strong with no fear of "exploding".
D
 

Attachments

  • 10443.jpg
    10443.jpg
    149.7 KB · Views: 81
My son built me a 4 wheel stand for 427s and 454s. Their a little on the heavy side. I didn't trust some of the stands I saw. He even built me an adapter for aircraft engines. Quite a kid!
 
Back
Top