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Engine Stand Question

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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So, this afternoon I finally sorted out the car & parts in their new home. I also assembled my engine stand. Here is my question. When I bolt on the engine must I attach the bolts to the engine casting? Or can I use the flange that the transmission bolts on to?

TIA
JP /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
JP,

i bolted mine to the Block, where the tranny bolts to it. so i guess that would be the flange you are asking about. i used the upper two and then the two outboard ones down low. make sure you have enough room to remove the housing holding the rear main.


mark
 
I have a stand, build my engine on the garage floor. Always have guess I always will.

Least it is on the floor and I don't need a hoist to get it down.
 
I always attach the stand to the rear engine plate.
 
I have never done a 1500, but with the 1275 I use the alternator bracket mounting location on the side of the block. It requires fabricating an adapter to do with the stand but it is a lot easier to work on the engine since you can remove the rear plate, clutch, etc.
 
Chris - I've seen photos of engines bolted up on stands like that....do you have photos of your adapter?
 
Was a pic and drawing of one posted here some months ago.
 
I agree I have my spare on a stand now . cut a plate, drilled holes to match side of block. Welded it to a piece of heavy walled pipe. slide it into the engine stand. This way you can work on the front, back, upper and lower without taking it off of the stand.
 
Guess I missed that post.
 
Tony,
I couldn't find the link or file so I sketched one up this morning. You can find it here: Adapter
I'll add it to the knowledge base later today.
This is what it looks like on a stand, but you really can't see the detail.
248562-Stand.JPG
 

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I've had a complete engine and transmission on there.
 
That is the correct position for a take off on an engine stand.

the 2 x 5/16" screws will support a completed engine in rotation, using grade 5 or G8 screws that go into the case at least thread depth or about 3/4".......however...with a trans attached you need to have the motor on the stand and then add the trans and screw it on the motor and SUPPORT the tailshaft of the trans with a a-frame of wood or suitiable support, as the c.g. is then well rearward of the motor ..I use a stepstool which is just the rite height at about 30 ? inches...then hook your skyhook to the engine tilter (you do have one... no?) and lift the whole assembly together.

Not having a digital camera....I use an about 3" x 1.5" 5/16" or so thick plate to pick up the two 5/16" screws in the case. Then a perpendicular piece in at least 3/8" about 3" by 6" or so outward from the first piece at 90*..then a third piece of 3/8" to form a "C" shape on the bracket which is drilled two holes 1/2" or 5/8" to pick up the rotating plate on the engine stand.

You want to make the "C" plate adapter so you clear the distributor with the cap on... and the second piece of plate close to the dist so as to get in the center of balance of the case for ease of rotating.

If any one gets serious, post and I'll post back dimensions....saving you a bit of prototype engineering time.

Not knocking Chris' deal but the pick up point shud be rearward more so as to balance the lump.
 
That drawing is professional grade...I'm copying it & taking to the machine shop!
 
Thats all I ever use is the side mount, I basically copied the first one I ever saw and have made several since then.
I center my round pipe going back to stand a little lower and the two mounting bolts, same as yours, alt. bracket are above the center tube, works really well. Vizard in his book also has drawing for one, looks pretty close to what you have done Chris (nice looking weld by the way). Tony look at mine when you're up this weekend, I also have ones for the MGB and Spit/Midget 1500 blocks, you can look at as well.
 
That was my next question - one for an MGB!
 
Tony if you like mine, I could make you one, we can always trade for cores /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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