-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
engine securing points to engine stand???
- Thread starter timbn2
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
It seems to hold, but is scary. I welded tabs on either end of two one inch square steel tubes, and ran them vertically between the front of the stand and the front oil pan bolts. The tabs are bolted to the stand and the block. This of course was after the work was completed on the bottom end. I have also seen a rig made that bolts the engine to the stand via the engine mount holes on the side of the engine. This puts the center of gravity of the engine closer to the vertical component of the stand, and allows the engine to be rotated throughout the process.
Offline
I agree with all of you. I never wanted to put all that stress on the bolt holes of the backing plate. So I always used a 2x4 to prop the front of the engine as well. When I rotated it, I did so carefully holding some of the weight myself then reproped the front in any manner I could. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
It seems to hold, but is scary. I welded tabs on either end of two one inch square steel tubes, and ran them vertically between the front of the stand and the front oil pan bolts. The tabs are bolted to the stand and the block. This of course was after the work was completed on the bottom end. I have also seen a rig made that bolts the engine to the stand via the engine mount holes on the side of the engine. This puts the center of gravity of the engine closer to the vertical component of the stand, and allows the engine to be rotated throughout the process.
[/ QUOTE ]
That's the best way I've seen it done too. Easy enough to rig up with a little imagination.
It seems to hold, but is scary. I welded tabs on either end of two one inch square steel tubes, and ran them vertically between the front of the stand and the front oil pan bolts. The tabs are bolted to the stand and the block. This of course was after the work was completed on the bottom end. I have also seen a rig made that bolts the engine to the stand via the engine mount holes on the side of the engine. This puts the center of gravity of the engine closer to the vertical component of the stand, and allows the engine to be rotated throughout the process.
[/ QUOTE ]
That's the best way I've seen it done too. Easy enough to rig up with a little imagination.
This idea came from another list and worked very well. it uses the motor mount to secure the block to the stand. easy to rotate. not front heavy. can take the crank out. safe.
I gave the mount I made to another list member as I was done with it. hope this helps.
Kevin R
1959 BN7
I gave the mount I made to another list member as I was done with it. hope this helps.
Kevin R
1959 BN7
Attachments
JamesWilson
Yoda
Offline
That's useful. What thickness steel did you use for the engine plates?
ronzet
Jedi Knight
Offline
timbn2,
Rather than use my engine stand, I opted to set the engine on a work table once the internals and head were installed. I layed it on its side, installed the lower components; oil pump, timing gears and tensioner, pan, etc. Once this was done I set up two jackstands on the shop floor, spaced on either side of the block even with the installed motor mounts and a couple of 2bys under the rear engine plate. I then set the engine there to continue the assembly.
I know that the engine stand would probably have been fine... I guess I just wimped out... Mounted on the jack stands did let me intall the flywheel, clutch and transmission quite easily....
A word of caution... Make sure that the work table is extremely robust and can take the weight of the engine without collapsing...
Just food for thought...
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Rather than use my engine stand, I opted to set the engine on a work table once the internals and head were installed. I layed it on its side, installed the lower components; oil pump, timing gears and tensioner, pan, etc. Once this was done I set up two jackstands on the shop floor, spaced on either side of the block even with the installed motor mounts and a couple of 2bys under the rear engine plate. I then set the engine there to continue the assembly.
I know that the engine stand would probably have been fine... I guess I just wimped out... Mounted on the jack stands did let me intall the flywheel, clutch and transmission quite easily....
A word of caution... Make sure that the work table is extremely robust and can take the weight of the engine without collapsing...
Just food for thought...
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
"That's useful. What thickness steel did you use for the engine plates?"
I honestly dont remember what the wall thickness was. I would guess it was 3/16 thick. I made it out of MOH (material on hand) and was pleased with the durability of the sqaure tube I used. it was more than adequate with the head installed.
Kevin R
I honestly dont remember what the wall thickness was. I would guess it was 3/16 thick. I made it out of MOH (material on hand) and was pleased with the durability of the sqaure tube I used. it was more than adequate with the head installed.
Kevin R
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
Offline
How my builder did it:
Healey Nut
Luke Skywalker
Offline
The regular engine stands that you can spin the motor around to work on have a design weight limit . Im sure if you read the box it came in it would tell you the max weight you can hang on them . Now would I hang a 12cyl jag motor on one ???
Probably not but a 6cyl Healey no problem . Having said that I did use a bottle jack and block of wood on the nose of the block etc when it was sitting just to relieve the stress on the hanger bolts etc . . When I built my engine I used a regular engine stand as others have pictured , I built the whole engine minus the head, once the lower section was painted I transferred it to a small engine dolly which has four vertical posts which can be moved to accomodate different widths of engines . The engine sat on the sump to block lip and I completed the assembly cylinder head etc . Gearbox was next and the whole kit n kaboodle was dropped into place .
Probably not but a 6cyl Healey no problem . Having said that I did use a bottle jack and block of wood on the nose of the block etc when it was sitting just to relieve the stress on the hanger bolts etc . . When I built my engine I used a regular engine stand as others have pictured , I built the whole engine minus the head, once the lower section was painted I transferred it to a small engine dolly which has four vertical posts which can be moved to accomodate different widths of engines . The engine sat on the sump to block lip and I completed the assembly cylinder head etc . Gearbox was next and the whole kit n kaboodle was dropped into place .
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
Offline
Did you lift/lower using the long rockershaft studs, as per the manual?
Healey Nut
Luke Skywalker
Offline
I have a hoist in the garage so I used a piece of alluminium beam to stradle the runways . Then I used a chain hoist off the beam and using a combination of hoist lift and chain hoist lift raised the whole assembly up as high as possible . Then I pushed the car under the hoist and lowered the engine and gearbox in at an angle . Then with a cumalong around the tail of the gearbox up to the hoist so I could adjust the angle I lowered the hoist and raised the cumalong to level out the engine as things got lowered slowly into place . Moving the car back and forth as well to make sure everything went smoothly .
I had my helper (aka her ladyship) sit it the car and guide the tail of the gearbox as things were carefully lowered into place .
I have a plate which bolts to the head instead of the rocker shaft and it has an eyebolt threaded into it in the middle for a lift point .
tried to upload a pic but something doesnt seem to want to work today .
I had my helper (aka her ladyship) sit it the car and guide the tail of the gearbox as things were carefully lowered into place .
I have a plate which bolts to the head instead of the rocker shaft and it has an eyebolt threaded into it in the middle for a lift point .
tried to upload a pic but something doesnt seem to want to work today .
Healey Nut
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Barryp
Senior Member
Offline
Tim,
I too was concerned about hanging the engine from the back, plus you can't get the flywheel and clutch on it. I did a quick and dirty side mount using three of the engine LS motor mt holes. Not perfectly centered but close enough to spin pretty freely. Die grinder modifcation to one of the bottom slots was needed, and a long 3/8" stud (long MGB head stud works good) passing through the center tube with a plate on the end. I think I've attached photos. I keep thinking I will put a little more effort into centering it but this pretty good.
Barry
I too was concerned about hanging the engine from the back, plus you can't get the flywheel and clutch on it. I did a quick and dirty side mount using three of the engine LS motor mt holes. Not perfectly centered but close enough to spin pretty freely. Die grinder modifcation to one of the bottom slots was needed, and a long 3/8" stud (long MGB head stud works good) passing through the center tube with a plate on the end. I think I've attached photos. I keep thinking I will put a little more effort into centering it but this pretty good.
Barry
