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TR2/3/3A Engine removal questions

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lordwestbrook

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Happy Saturday everybody!

I'm about to remove the motor in the 3. I'm all by myself but I do have an engine hoist. Would it be easier/smarter to go ahead and separate the trans first before removing?

Thanks!

Jeff
 
It is generally easier to remove them together. If you remove the tranny first, you will have to support the rear of the engine, as the front mounts are not designed to prevent the engine from tipping rearward. Plus, the tranny is still about 100lbs and will have to be removed by hand if you separate it first. You have to still remove the tranny manually later, but it is easier to muscle around out of the car rather than inside. But, it’s really your choice.

The only thing to watch in either case...do not remove the head and attempt to lift by the free standing head studs. That is guaranteed to crack your block.
 
It makes it easier to get the engine/transmission out if you remove the gear lever. When I reinstalled mine I had the gear shift housing removed as well. Made it much easier.

David
 
CJD said:
It is generally easier to remove them together. If you remove the tranny first, you will have to support the rear of the engine, as the front mounts are not designed to prevent the engine from tipping rearward. Plus, the tranny is still about 100lbs and will have to be removed by hand if you separate it first. You have to still remove the tranny manually later, but it is easier to muscle around out of the car rather than inside. But, it’s really your choice.

The only thing to watch in either case...do not remove the head and attempt to lift by the free standing head studs. That is guaranteed to crack your block.
Click to expand...



Oh jeez- thats exactly what i just did.... removed the pressure and will find another alternative. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Don't forget to drain the oils before you lift the engine out, the angle of attack will guarantee sump oil will run out the rear crank seal and make a mess on your garage floor.

Graham
 
lordwestbrook said:
Oh jeez- thats exactly what i just did.... removed the pressure and will find another alternative. Thanks for the heads up!
Click to expand...

I take it you removed the head? Not a big deal...just do not be tempted to attach the chains to the studs without the head. It will pull the studs to the inside, which stresses the cast iron block and the threads will crack. You can use a longer bolt in any of the front plate holes forward...or use the lift ring bolted to the front left side if your engine has one. On the rear, use a longer bolt in one of the bell housing mounting holes, or any other 5/16" or larger holes.
 
Thanks John- I asked a friend previous to reading your post and he said it was perfectly ok- (He’s an American car guy though) so I got it most of the way out using the exposed studs. After I read your post I promptly found another alternative and got the engine the rest of the way out. Lesson learned. Fingers crossed.
 
If it cracked, it will be a hairline running from the stud threads to the water jacket. It is repairable, but adds some work to the rebuild. Here is a thread about mine that will show where to look...and how to fix if it is cracked. If you miss it and put the engine back together with a hairline crack, coolant will work its way up the stud and come out in the rocker area, or outside the head, depending which one is cracked.

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?97470-Block-Crack-Repair
 
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