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engine rebuild

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hvacr

hvacr

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Brand new MG owner, (I rode in my dads 1950-TD in 1950)I have my engine apart trying in all ignorace to decicide what to put in new. I have been farming and done a few of my tractors so I'm not too dense. The sleeves have real ridge, so I think I must renew them. By the way, a valve shattered so the pistons are a mess and I wll renew them. The rod bearings are copperd so I guess they are done, but the crank shaft looks OK. It's someware around 1.865. spedo says 78000 and from the teardown this seems accurate. Moss motors say in the web catalog the sleeves need machining, what's this all about? Anybody who has expericnce please respond.
 
Welcome aboard fellow Vermonter!!!.. where abouts are you located? I reside in east wallingord.

As far as your engine, not sure which one you have. what year is your car, and what size engine do you have?

with that many miles i would renew Main bearings, rod bearings, timing chain and tensioner, thrust washer, oil pump, cam and lifters. i would certainly have the crank checked and then decide from there wether to replace it or have it reground to the next standard size. Sounds like you are in for a new set of pistons anyhow. Did the valve shattering score up the bore any?

You have found here in this forum a great knowledge base of information. that and a really good set of folks. Welcome Aboard.

Mark
 
Hi Mark, Randolph Center, Sounds like work..75,000 is just breaking in for my Toyotas. Its '76 1500. That big nut on the crank looks ominous. How does the crank come away from the clutch area? I ordered a repair manual from Moss so will have fewer questions. I was hoping to be done in a few weeks of spare time. The bores look good but the ring lips must be delt with... Somehow.Do these sleeves pop up with O rings?
 
hvacr,
cant help you much with the sleeve deal. someone here can i am sure. that big nut is very tight and a normal nut (ccw) to loosen. with the pan off you can chock the crank against the block with a piece of wood and get some leverage,this worked for me, but scared the doodoo out of me, i was kinda worried about breaking the side of the block. or if still in the car use a large breaker bar and use the bump the starter trick. Are you doing this in the car? the crank would lift out of the block once the the main caps unbolted and removed. not sure this can be done in the car with the flywheel still in place.

Here is a useful thread here about the sleeves.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post111068
when i did mine i dont believe there were any sleeves in mine...

if your on a budget (and who isnt) you could ridge ream the tops and install some new pistons and con rod bearings, get you head redone and try it from there. I would definitely replace the thrust washer on the crank, for they are a known weak point in these engines, with that many miles. also the timing chain and tensioner.

it cost me about 1500$ to rebuild mine. that includes the price of a new crank and NO machine work (someone had already done it for me) a new cam set(came with springs and tappets), chain and gears, bearings and water and oil pump, gaskets and misc.

I would believe that you should be able to get this done in a couple of weeks of spare time, once you have the parts you plan to replace.
and if you need a hand with anything Randolph is just a sweet tour up the road from me.


mark
 
Thanks Mark, I have a small machine shop so might be able to mic all the parts once the manual arrives. I got a refurbshed head with valves on ebay so far.
 
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